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Posts by stylenewbie

So I'm still a little confused about hand-sewn buttonholes. I had read somewhere that a working buttonhole has the hole cut out first and then the stitching done around the whole. A machine-made buttonhole has the stitching done first and then the whole punched out. However in my Castangia suit, it looks very much like the stitching has done first as you can still see a bit of the fabric in the middle of the stitches. There appears to be a small amount of fabric in...
I can probably take a higher armhole. Would making the armhole smaller compensate for the smaller sleeve and thus allow the sleeve to hang more naturally?
What are the potential risks of altering the sleeve length from the shoulder? I just bought a suit which I just found has working buttonholes . The thing that is killing me is that everything else about the suit fits. More than anything I worry that the integrity of the shoulder could be compromised and it will end up looking different. Also can anybody recommend a good tailor in the SF/Bay Area who can do a good job of this at a reasonable price? (say under $80). Thanks!
So then would a coat where only 4 buttons are showing be inappropriate? I remember seeing a very nice one where where the top two of the 6 buttons were hidden behind the collar.
How many buttons should a peacoat have? I have seen everything from 6 buttons (4 exposed 2 behind the collar) to 10.
Ah that makes sense. Thanks Foo!
I assume hand-finished refers to more external handiwork ie pick stitching; while hand-made includes hand sewing the shoulders, chest etc? If so how would one be able to tell the difference.
After the brouhaha surrounding Gilt and it's specially made cheaper clothes, does anybody know if yoox does the same? The same issue regarding maintainable supply seems to apply here as well. Some of the items on yoox have a starting price that is considerably lower than 50% off; such as the recent addition (and prompt reduction) of Common Project shoes for $130. Might these be outlet models?
Thanks for the info. I guess that's pretty common practice then.
I just had my suit sleeves shortened, and I noticed that the tailor had sewn the buttons through the lining, so that the thread had made a hole in the lining. I this a common practice? I assumed that normally the lining is removed, buttons are sewn only through the outer fabric and the lining re-attached. My tailor previously did impeccable work in decreasing the width of a coat's shoulders, to the point where I could not tell any work had been done. So I find it...
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