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Posts by novalis

Agreed, he has a great eye for the shoulder and shapes it accordingly and with interesting, subtle variations. Here's a view of his first suit for me based on a variation of a spalla camicia. I didn't ask for this variation specifically but perhaps he was inspired to experiment by the cloth - a dry, crisp English windowpane.
Five years ago I had the pleasure of ordering my first Arrigo jacket made from a light 8.5oz Italian windowpane jacketing. Below are recent photos of me wearing it. Since then, I have ordered several garments including jackets, suits, pants and an overcoat and have been very satisfied. Keep in mind that my measurements have changed in the chest and waist in the last few years but I have not had that initial jacket adjusted in any way. So it now sits a bit closer to the...
Thanks to the SF members who participated in my survey and best wishes for the holidays!
Hello, I'm working on an academic research project comparing two heritage menswear brands - Alfred Dunhill and Zegna. If you have previously bought from either of these brands or are a customer of either brand, your input would be greatly appreciated. Please take a 3 minute survey of these 2 classic menswear brands. Responses are kept anonymous. If there's interest, I'm happy to post summarized results here. Thank you and happy holidays!
Quote: Originally Posted by voxsartoria As for shoulder treatment: that is not related to drape, and people have varying opinions on that subject. Scholte himself would do a padded shoulder...his successors tend not to. Quite so. What do you prefer on yourself? How about on Jefferyd using the two jackets in this thread? And why? - B Shoulder treatment is indeed mostly off topic for this thread but there is actually a relationship...
Quote: Originally Posted by T4phage I agree with vox here. To my eye, even though the jacket on the left is much cleaner and has more structure, it makes Jeffrey look quite thin and almost hollow chested. Disclaimer: I have no stake in this drape v clean chest debate. I think either can look fine depending on the person and situation. However, this is the kind of justification for drape that leaves me shaking my head. Jefferyd's chest is...
Quote: Originally Posted by voxsartoria I will regret this, but here we go: 1. An example of a draped jacket: Solito - B Nothing to add to the great Drape Wars except that I love how my photo of Solito is being draped all over the internetz.
Quote: Originally Posted by iammatt A human chest is curved, a suit has curvature in the chest, so anything applied to the chest needs to be curved as well. This is well-said as a coherent philosophy of the chest pocket. Now I'll have to think some more about whether I agree with the last clause of the statement. It sounds good in theory but I'm not sure it should be a universal rule for everyone. For the record, the breast pockets on my...
Quote: Originally Posted by organix71 This pocket is no more! It has ceased to be! 'the pocket has expired and gone to meet it's maker! Bereft of life, it rests in peace! THIS IS AN EX-POCKET! Ha, that's right, I worship the zombie pocket. All of those unliving pockets, they are mine, all mine!!
Quote: Originally Posted by T4phage What makes that a neapolitan suit? the "unpadded" shoulder? That's precisely right - it's a Neapolitan suit jacket. Just one of many different types made in the city of Naples. I think the definition of Neapolitan suits has been dealt with in detail many times before. Manton, iammatt, mafoofan here on SF and alden and uppercase on LL are good places to start. Quote: Originally Posted by...
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