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Posts by novalis

Quote: Originally Posted by voxsartoria As for shoulder treatment: that is not related to drape, and people have varying opinions on that subject. Scholte himself would do a padded shoulder...his successors tend not to. Quite so. What do you prefer on yourself? How about on Jefferyd using the two jackets in this thread? And why? - B Shoulder treatment is indeed mostly off topic for this thread but there is actually a relationship...
Quote: Originally Posted by T4phage I agree with vox here. To my eye, even though the jacket on the left is much cleaner and has more structure, it makes Jeffrey look quite thin and almost hollow chested. Disclaimer: I have no stake in this drape v clean chest debate. I think either can look fine depending on the person and situation. However, this is the kind of justification for drape that leaves me shaking my head. Jefferyd's chest is...
Quote: Originally Posted by voxsartoria I will regret this, but here we go: 1. An example of a draped jacket: Solito - B Nothing to add to the great Drape Wars except that I love how my photo of Solito is being draped all over the internetz.
Quote: Originally Posted by iammatt A human chest is curved, a suit has curvature in the chest, so anything applied to the chest needs to be curved as well. This is well-said as a coherent philosophy of the chest pocket. Now I'll have to think some more about whether I agree with the last clause of the statement. It sounds good in theory but I'm not sure it should be a universal rule for everyone. For the record, the breast pockets on my...
Quote: Originally Posted by organix71 This pocket is no more! It has ceased to be! 'the pocket has expired and gone to meet it's maker! Bereft of life, it rests in peace! THIS IS AN EX-POCKET! Ha, that's right, I worship the zombie pocket. All of those unliving pockets, they are mine, all mine!!
Quote: Originally Posted by T4phage What makes that a neapolitan suit? the "unpadded" shoulder? That's precisely right - it's a Neapolitan suit jacket. Just one of many different types made in the city of Naples. I think the definition of Neapolitan suits has been dealt with in detail many times before. Manton, iammatt, mafoofan here on SF and alden and uppercase on LL are good places to start. Quote: Originally Posted by...
Quote: Originally Posted by NYC_Esq My understanding is that the structured Kilgour-type look is completely different than the unstructured A&S look. I like both looks, but I certainly can't picture how either would look on me. Many people seem to think unstructured and structured shoulders are radically different. They're different but they're not worlds apart I think. Here's what they look like on me: Kilgour bespoke suit jacket...
I forgot to mention - manton is correct that I post as erasmus on AAC but on Styleforum I post as novalis. And LARon and I are different guys - nice try though, whacked!
whnay, thanks for the post and I certainly appreciate all of the kind comments. I guess I better make sure I deliver with my book in progress! We shall see how it turns out but I am hoping to make a quasi-original contribution on the topic of dressing well. Given the excellent, available literature (Flusser, manton), that's a tall order. But I'm aiming for a systematic treatment of historical style icons (illustrating and pulling together disparate concepts of style...
Check out the Pathfinder Revolution line: http://www.pathfinderluggage.com/lin...evolution.html Internal frame is polycarbonate which is both light and durable. Great internal compartment design as well. I use their 22" and 26" models.
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