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Posts by Carey

Purchase a better quality shirt that does not have an adjustable cuff (two buttons that can make the sleeve length differ by an inch). You might find that you are more satisfied with an exact fit. All shirts vary from one manufacturer to the next. Try different brands until you find a fit you really like. If you are working with a tight budget, try Nordstrom Rack - and stay away from the adjustable sleeve length shirt, e.g. 16 34/35, which does not fit wiell to...
Do you really mean pick stitching? If the lapels have no edge stitching - a bluffed edge, a tailor can pick-stitch them. However, it is always best to follow the advice of the tailor who will do the work. I have had mine tell me not to make this change to a Hickey-Freeman birdseye I bought a few years ago.
Today in Manhattan, I tried on the Craftsman Yearling in a 10.5 F. They were a great fit, but I really want the French Veal Calf, and they are not available any narrower than a G width. Would I drop to a 10 G? They didn't have that model for me to try and I prefer the Chisel toe to the rounded toe of the Turnout - which I tried in a 10G. The rounded toe was a bit too crowded for me. I have read through Sator's guide several times, and I can't figure out the...
Thank you Zegnamtl for the picture of the lapel of the PZ. Is that "filet" the backside of the lapel or the front? Also, was the surface fabric invisibly sewn to the canvas of the lapel (front or back)?
Thank you for your input. I often think the debate about "fusing" often gets caught up in a semantic issue. My suit and jacket wardrobe is limited to Hickey-Freeman (not HF Collection or Limite) and Samuelsohn. These garments are described as fully canvassed. Many of you will say these goods have some fusing. The only area I can detect as possibly fused is the backside of the lapel, and I am not certain that this area is fused with glue. It seems to be stiched to...
This is a tired question; however, I had a long discussion with a shop owner who showed me a suit, which has the canvas sewn to the outer fabric by machine with thousands of tiny stitches - thus the garment is not fused with glue. I think it sounds like a load of schite, as I can't pinch any of the chest without pinching the interlining (canvas), too. Although the this Coppley suit was in the $1000.00 range, its construction did not seem to be of the same quality as a...
Think about how you will feel if you have to work in the food service industry or be a manual laborer for the next 45 years. Keep your eye on the prize - your degree. Demand nothing but excellence of yourself! Never settle for just OK. You are just a grasshopper right now, and you must learn everything you can from the master. You face a lot right now, but realize that in the working world deadlines are a requirement of employment. So sometimes you decompress to...
Look at Nordstrom Rack. I bought a Samulsohn solid chacoal gray suit two years ago in June at a fine men's store when I was on a business trip in Richmond, VA. I paid $625 for this $900.00 retail suit, during the shop's summer sale. You should try Roger Stevens Menswear, 428 E. Wisconsin Ave, in Milwaukee, before heading to Chicago. Lastly, fully canvassed is the only way to go. If you can't find on sale, you could get a MTM Samuelsohn for around a grand. Their...
Consider the cut of the trouser. I don't cuff most of my E. Zegna wool trousers, because the legs are more narrow than those of my Samuelsohn trousers. I consider color, too. So, my charcoal grey Zegna's are cuffed. No hard or fast rules for cuffs, except never on a tuxedo. I used to wear only longrise pleated trousers until I realized a regular rise flat front was more slimming. No more cuffs on Khakis either. Bill's corduroys - cuffed. Go figure, it is about the look...
My first pair I ever had (1969) were as you describe. Alden makes them both lined and unlined, with either a rubber, leather, or commando sole.
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