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Posts by NHorween

This is a long time (since 1905) standard procedure.I'm surprised to see that pattern, that is a result of vacuum drying leather. Moisture is sucked out of the leather in a low pressure vessel over a screen, which leaves that pattern.5 oz is not really lightweight in the rest of the world. For us full range of weights means we can process it up to 10 oz.
To us, butts and shells are the same. A horsehide yields us three products, the front, the strip, and the butt/shells: http://horween.com/leathers/equine-hyde-chart/. The shell has always been described to me as a membrane that forms like a callous from the movement of the animal. The larger/older the animal the larger the shells tend to be. We leave the grain intact and in place as this helps improve tensile strength. The shell is laminated to the layers around it and we...
It's been a while, but I thought I'd chime in.We try for a finished product as close to 5 oz as possible. This weight will vary across the Shell and weight falls off towards what was the rear of the hide. It is not impossible to see a 2 oz difference from one side of the shell to the other.Corrected grain leather refers to leather that has grain that has been either partially or completely removed by a buffing (sanding) machine. There are different grits, papers, machines,...
It develops well with age for sure. The second to last picture is three identical shell wallets of different ages. http://horween.wordpress.com/2012/04/17/through-the-lens-3/
Here's full contact info for the three mentioned - the site will be back up soon! Lamparter GmbH Martin-Luther-Str. 23 77933 Lahr Tel. +49 7821 98335-0 Fax. +49 7821 98335-2 Email: welcome@lamparter-ortho.com www.lamparter-ortho.com BRIZZI AGENZIE S.R.L. VIA VALBRONA 4 20125 MILANO TEL +39 02 6436671 FAX +39 02 6436355 MAIL brizzi.ag@tiscali.it A & A Crack 16 Pennard Close Brack Mills, Northampton NN4 7BE, England Tel: 004 416 0487 4422 E-mail:...
There's probably a way to remove it, but not without changing/pulling some of the color underneath the edge dressing. If it's sitting all the way up on the surface, you may be able to scrape some of it (carefully) with a the backside of a knife. You can also trying rubbing alcohol cut with water, or full strength. My grandfather sent back a pair of shoes to be resoled (shoemaker will remain anonymous) and they came back completely refinished. When the shoemaker asked...
The total tanning capacity worldwide has not decreased, it's just been shifted and refocused. One would assume that since there are more people now, that more leather is made to keep up with what people want and need. When we talk about jackets it becomes more of a price factor than a supply (or potential supply) factor, unless we're talking horsehide. Costs to produce the leather traditionally used in jackets, like the A2, have gone up with material costs - and there...
I like Venetian because it gives the right amount of shine for me. I use Renovateur with success as well. The fact that Zoe's is domestic (and in Chicago) is important to me.
Quote: Originally Posted by Galix Hey guys! Nice post. I have a question about cordovan. Next winter I'll be moving to a place where it literally rains on average 235 days a year, plus occasional snow. Is it cordovan a better option than calf for that insane amount of water? And what about soles: dainite or commando? And if someone is wondering which city I'm talking about, it's Bergen, in the western coast of Norway. Shell "rolls" more...
@Fishball - We grade the shells based on cuttable area. If the imperfection is a slit only then we may have left it in place depending on where it was located. You can always exchange/return uncut leather, though this doesn't sound too problematic to me. @cimabue - thanks! @bengal-stripe - Mr. Gaziano makes beautiful shoes, no question about that. But, I will say that I'm confused by most points from that quote. Our shell cordovan tops out at about 2.4mm, and does...
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