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Posts by cthip

Thanks, "transformation" is definitely the right word! The photos really can't even really capture just how much better the boots are now than they have ever been. Brian's work isn't cheap ($225 for my pair), especially considering that I only paid $250 for the boots to begin with. For comparison, I had previously paid about $180 for a new welt and stitched Itshide commando sole from B. Nelson, so Brian's cost isn't out-of-line considering how much more handwork he does...
Here are some before/after photos from my recent Role Club/Brian the Bootmaker re-sole with a storm welt and Vibram 435 sole. Before: After:
I wear mine year-round, just choose your socks wisely. When it's hot out, I like the thinnest Icebreaker/Smartwool type sock I can find. I find they wick moisture, breathe well, and resist odor.Synthetic socks like CoolMax will probably work too.
The 1Ks also do come in #8, and so Rust and Brown are actually both somewhat different from it. Having said that, Brown will be furthest from #8 since it has no trace of red at all. It's very much a medium walnut-brown color. Rust does have quite a bit of red in it, and IMO looks sorta like a lighter shade of #8.
5 oz is reasonably heavy for a t-shirt. I have some 4.8 oz tees from American Giant that are quite honestly too heavy in the summertime.For comparison:AA Fine Jersey (their standard tees) = 4.3 ozAA Sheer Jersey (light, but still wearable on their own) = 3.8 ozAA Heavy Jersey (I didn't even know they made these) = 5.8 ozhttps://www.americanapparel.net/wholesaleresources/fabrics.aspOf course there's more to it than just weight, but that gives you a good ballpark idea.
Cool, if you like that one, check these out as well to give you some idea of what's involved in doing a half-sole:http://halfsoles.com/category/how-to/The guys also sells Vibram halfs, heels, and cement. So you can compare the DIY cost (including tools, cement, shipping) to your cobbler's cost.I'm not certain, but the pair you referenced on pg 570 doesn't look like the full-sole was applied in the usual way. Typically to do a full-sole, the entire heel is removed, the...
The first thing to get used to is to understand that boots are pretty modular. An experienced cobbler can replace nearly any of the parts on a boot. Wranglerstar's multi-part tour of Nick's Boots is amazing, and does an excellent job of highlighting which parts of the boot can be repaired or replaced, if you're curious about what all goes into it:https://youtu.be/yozIoVtjN_w?list=PLu9l40IymKw_qwLONpl1T-JvRl8pjKar2So, why wouldn't you go with a full-sole now? The bottom...
Nice! The black 1Ks that went up on his Instagram last night are mine. They're in the mail now, I'll post some more photos in about a week when they come in.For reference, here's a before photo. They'd actually gotten a bit worse since January due to all the snow/ice/salt/slush this winter.
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This. Even if your IRs are a little long, if you're not getting blisters or anything from your feet sliding around, then it's really not a problem. That's just how the boots fit on you, and quite honestly a little too much room is better than too little. You can wear thicker socks or try insoles with those if you're convinced they're much too long.Measurements are just measurements, and we're talking about a few millimeters between sizes here. As you already know they...
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