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Posts by glenjay

No, not really. I would avoid extremes of very hot, arid, or freezing cold for storing any shoes, but other than that there are no special requirements.
As pB mentioned, it is not unusual get some minor white residue from using neutral polish. This is usually caused by using too much polish. Very little polish is needed to shine a shoe. This is true of most shoe polish, and especially true of GlenKaren polish.As for the stiffness of the polish in the jar, this is due in part to the coconut oil in the polish. As the polish warms up from friction (movement of the leather fiber protein bundles, shoe brushing, etc.) or...
Yes, they are still on the market.As a side note: I just recently picked up a distributor in Sweden with http://www.skolyx.se/
Thanks DW, I hadn't considered the cut of the shell. That could certainly be a cause as well.
I doubt that the issue is the finish. Shell typically does not have much of a finish on it because it would defeat the concept of shell. And, I would never use RenoMat on shell, personally, for the same reason.The difference in color is probably due to one of two things. 1) A different dye lot for the shell used for each boot, or more likely, 2) The lighter boot was on display (possibly near a window) and was lightened by UV over time, while the other boot remained in...
First, I have to ask; when you say you pay a lot for your shoes what does that mean? That is a pretty subjective statement. What brands & models of shoes do you own? Also, when you say they last for years, how old are the shoes that you have continuously used this technique on? What is a well polished look to you? Could you post some pictures?The idea of lighting a tin of shoe polish on fire has been around about as long as tins of shoe polish. But, you are doing...
This is how I imagine they do topy in heaven, cause I'm taking my Lobbs with me when I go.
I would guess that it was too much water because of the discolored haze. There are a number of ways to strip the wax down to start over: Personally I use pure orange oil as a solvent for this type of thing, and just rub off the wax, but most people don't have that handy. The cheapest way (which is also very messy) is to simply get the toe damp and brush it with a short bristle shoe brush. You could clean the toe with some saddle soap to remove some of the wax. You...
A good picture of the problem would help in the quality of advice, but: If it is hazy then it was probably too much water in that area. If it is more of a dull dead spot, it was probably too much wax. In either case you will probably have to remove a number of layers and start over.
The most recent Safety Data Sheet I have read on Nikwax waterproofing wax for leather is about 9 years old (http://www.osabrands.com/images/products_pdf/Nikwax_Nikwax%20Waterproofing%20Wax.pdf), so it is possible they could have changed their formula since.It is also important to note that thicker leather like that in hiking and mountaineering boots can take more abuse that thinner leather.In regard to suffocating leather: So as not to trap perspiration within the leather...
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