How about this: with a morning suit one shouldn have white collar only, because it's a stiff detachable collar but there's no such thing as stiff cuffs. The question then is: should one reference this with a lounge suit?
What's your preferred style? I suppose the historical origins are different. White collar and cuffs come from replacement parts that couldn't match the faded colour of the body of the shirt. White collar only probably comes from neckband shirts with detachable collars -- here people would occasionally put a white stiff collar on a coloured neckband shirt. My inclination is to think that white collar only is subtler and less Gekko-like. But I'm ready to be proven wrong.
There has been a soft tailoring trend for some time. But now many manufacturers are upping the game with half lined or often completely unlined tailored garments -- even overcoats. Or coats of fairly formal suits. Why? My tailor has done quarter lined sportcoats for me but always advises against it -- he thinks the coats won't keep their shape and will last less. I don't perceive the extra weight of a lining. If I want a really soft look I can go for a shirt jacket or a...
Copy-pasting an old post of mine,
It seems to me that there are four different kinds of silk knits:
1 - Almost flat and light, a sort of piquet weave. These are sold by cheaper retailers such as TM Lewin, and I consider them too ugly to wear.
2 - Crunchy and airy: I have some of these by Borsalino, Les Copains and Polo. I really like them.
3 - Crunchy and loose: this is the Howard Yount variety. Many other brands sell these. They're not bad at all and I wear them...
Blue, pink, and white are much more common solid colour choices for an OCBD. Why? Ecru goes with everything, photographs very well, and is subtle without being showy. Why do people shun this colour? Answers on a postcard.
If you can't get your foot through the leg, then the leg is too tight. It will look out of proportion. Even the guys in the pic look terrible. They look like they sell clothes for a living, which many of them probably do.