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Posts by CruzAzul

While the dimensions are a matter of personal preference, one detail I like to specify is a stiff collarband but a completely soft/unfused collar. That way the collar lays flat and comfortable but it doesn't collapse, so you can wear it under a sport coat or something.
I'm not clapeyron (obviously) but I love the Brisbane Moss canvas. So far I have two travel pants and a coat made out of this stuff. Tough but not stiff, durable, still looks good at the end of the day. My only recommendation would be to get a swatch before making a big investment because some of the neutrals are hard to photograph.
So hard to pick favourites, but in terms of the best material (due to thickness, feel, texture, wrinkle resistance, etc) the Grandi & Rubinelli fabrics are the nicest that I own. I have a G&R white pinpoint oxford and a navy mini gingham, and I plan to order a couple of the G&R tattersalls for fall.
This is always a challenge for me too, and has been in the past with other makers (including my local tailor, and indeed myself when I got a serger and decided to experiment). I've never gotten it right, whether basing the measurements on my dress shirts or on well-fitting off-the-rack polos.@luxire , is this something we should maybe leave up to your expertise to make the necessary adjustments? Say, if we have a perfectly fitting woven shirt in a previous order, should we...
I feel you, man. I have a couple of pants on order and every time photos are posted I stop and scan the ones that don't have pleats or side adjusters.
Light olive or rust all day, son.
There are so many key details you nailed on this -- the shape of the lapels, that small high notch up at the collarbone, the way the shoulders are set. This is outstanding.
While I don't have any experience with this sort of thing for trousers, I do like this kind of material for outerwear. Seems to add some nice shape retention and a bit of water resistance.
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