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Posts by greger

There are no "rules" to clothes. Just look at history and you can see that if there are rules everybody here has busted them. Maybe the rules started in the Grden Of Eden before fig leaves. Clothes are ever changing so fit into your group and other requirements, such as work and other places where clothes may be different than you group.One person said your coat is short like womans- that is hogwash as history shows coats of many lengths and many reasons as new ideas came...
I think when aks andy and sf got started and for a long time after anything else than A&S is not cool. The main writers had no interest in much else, those who were interested in the other tailors it wasn't worth their time to write it at these two places. After all, it was sorta like drape was god (which it isn't).
Like the belt back, though a center vent might look better (looks like that part is one piece, which is another good way to do that.Never like it when the front waist is higher than the back waist- at least that is what it appears to be when looking at the front button. Looking at a picture can be misleading. Read that 3 fifths of the belt is above the waist line leaving 2 fifths below for placement.
I thought vest were becoming popular again. At least I have been seeing them around.
Those pant legs are terrible! Look how high the hem goes up the leg!
That looks much better. People do have different postures through out the day too which can change the fit. And as you say coming out of a box.... And, as Thomas Mahon said, a tailored coat is somewhat fluid (heard that from my granddad, first over 50 years ago). Your coat maker has a good reputation.
Could be several things. One it looks like the waist line is lower than the button stance, that might have something to do with it. The fluting aims towards the shoulders, so shorten the back or add up there at the front shoulder. Straightening or crooking the shoulder might take care of the problem. If he sways his hips forward then the coat needs more room in front and less at the sides. With a skeleton baste these can be figured out quickly. Sure there are other reasons...
slewfoot, So many of your SB have problems where they are buttoned. Actually the problem is somewhere else but shows up there. This is a problem the tailor should have dealt with and gotten rid of. It is interesting how narrow the overlap is on the DB, an older style (1920s). The craftsmanship is fairly nice.
He makes some very nice coats, but it is hard to believe he presses the sleeve crowns flat- shrinks them flat. Although for broadening the shoulders that's OK.
Sometimes life is what you make it, what you choose to believe. Back in the 60s I was taught to stay away from drinking, smoking and in the 70s drugs. In life there were better things to entertain myself with than following the crowd. When I see somebody smoking I think " What an idot." Because they are. 6 boys I went to elementary school with fried there brains on drugs before the age of 45 because they choose to believe the crowd. One needs to be smarter than the crowd...
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