50 years ago the tailors I was around made what ever you wanted, so any shape lapel. The tailors who refuse are missing some lessons. In the 60s SR made the general business suit, but for the after hours they made some outrageous clothing. Today SR is a shadow of itself.
No, talking about women who go to a fabric store and buy a pattern, thread, fabric, sewing machine and try to make a garment. Some of them are actually pretty good. But their seam allowances are wide. Tailors seam allowances are narrow, but when they add width the added width is called inlay.
There are many combinations. A green or orange or striped tie, or chuck the dark vest.
It seems his personality isn't connecting with all the colors because his vest is to large of dark. So to say, the coat is the king of garments. There should be no competition between the coat and vest.