Whole cut all the way. But I'd put another vote in for calf not shell. I love cordovan, but to me this shoe should be a dress calf (and hopefully with a rams head medallion!). A nice light color for spring.
I saw earlier in the thread that the Cramertons are machine washable. Should I expect any inseam shrinkage if I wash cold and hang dry? I'm trying to decide if I should give them a cold soak before having them hemmed. I think these will look great with a cuff!