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Posts by Spark

I picked up a copy this AM while grabbing a book for my next flight. Compared to the past issues, a "meh" rating would be generous. Some sections - the, ahem, "adventure" spreads, for example - were just silly and poorly executed. Unless you tend to pack a machete on a regular basis, that is. There's a fair amount of travel stuff in it, so I was surprised to learn that I have actually been flying 100+k/a year without a $450 cashmere eyeshade - imagine! But the real...
I have the Brooks in black ( one of my 2 black shoes), it is C&J on the 240 last which is a bit wider. I also have the Audley in brown. There is no comparison in terms of the elegance of the last and the quality of the leather - Audley +100.
I have a fair amount of Isaia in rotation - S,V, Stuart, Sirio,Cary, etc. - and have am a big fan of the silhouettes, fabrics, and details. I've tried on the collarossos and was quite surprised at how much I didn't like them - the details were nice and the fabric was great and, honestly, they looked great on the hanger, but they just didn't look good on me. Not sure what it was with the cut, but it was decidedly meh.. Although I don't own any, my take was the last...
I have that same Canali nailhead and it has a much softer shoulder than what they usually offer -- looks almost solid from a distance, has great texture, and always draws compliments. Someone's going to get a great deal!
I generally wear very soft shoulers and have reached a point where I look for jackets with minimal padding, but I do have a few jackets with more structure and/or padding in the rotation. The only thing I have that is truly roped is an Isaia Base V, but it is subtle (still very different than Base S or older Stuarts, Sirio, etc. models). The jacket is very slim and there is not all that much padding in the shoulder itself, but definitely a very small amount of wadding...
What's the sleeve length on the H&H shirts?
AE Westwood might be an option - black captoe with a slight perf and a thin vibram sole. Unlike the usual blobs AE offers, this has a more chiseled toebox and the sole is thinner than a Danite so it doesn't look like a country shoe. Not sure if it has been discontinued but I saw a pair for $100 even at nordstrom's rack a few weeks back - check their shoe mart outlet.
I have a few of the Todd model picked up on deep sale at Nordstrom Rack -- I think that these are a "newer" model and are flat front and quite slim. Maybe not Incotex-made-in-Romania-ball-hugging slim, but pretty trim; on par with my other Incos, Mabitex, Zegna, Isaia slacks... Pleated Zanellas seem to run pretty wide from what I have seen...
Zegna is closer to - but better than - Canali and is several big notches below Oxxford which is probably the best made OTR suit in America. The construction and amount of hand work really can't be compared. As noted, styling with Oxxford is an issue. Do a search and you will find out that they are classic CEO-type fare -- conservative, often boxy, and much of the stuff on ebay is really dated. They have recently introduced some more stylish models, but their...
Re: Basting in public This is a look I have often wondered about - I saw a guy in O'Hare a few weeks ago with his double vents still basted and the hang tag on the sleeve. An entirely new level of Sprezz?
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