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Posts by Spark

I have that same Canali nailhead and it has a much softer shoulder than what they usually offer -- looks almost solid from a distance, has great texture, and always draws compliments. Someone's going to get a great deal!
I generally wear very soft shoulers and have reached a point where I look for jackets with minimal padding, but I do have a few jackets with more structure and/or padding in the rotation. The only thing I have that is truly roped is an Isaia Base V, but it is subtle (still very different than Base S or older Stuarts, Sirio, etc. models). The jacket is very slim and there is not all that much padding in the shoulder itself, but definitely a very small amount of wadding...
What's the sleeve length on the H&H shirts?
AE Westwood might be an option - black captoe with a slight perf and a thin vibram sole. Unlike the usual blobs AE offers, this has a more chiseled toebox and the sole is thinner than a Danite so it doesn't look like a country shoe. Not sure if it has been discontinued but I saw a pair for $100 even at nordstrom's rack a few weeks back - check their shoe mart outlet.
I have a few of the Todd model picked up on deep sale at Nordstrom Rack -- I think that these are a "newer" model and are flat front and quite slim. Maybe not Incotex-made-in-Romania-ball-hugging slim, but pretty trim; on par with my other Incos, Mabitex, Zegna, Isaia slacks... Pleated Zanellas seem to run pretty wide from what I have seen...
Zegna is closer to - but better than - Canali and is several big notches below Oxxford which is probably the best made OTR suit in America. The construction and amount of hand work really can't be compared. As noted, styling with Oxxford is an issue. Do a search and you will find out that they are classic CEO-type fare -- conservative, often boxy, and much of the stuff on ebay is really dated. They have recently introduced some more stylish models, but their...
Re: Basting in public This is a look I have often wondered about - I saw a guy in O'Hare a few weeks ago with his double vents still basted and the hang tag on the sleeve. An entirely new level of Sprezz?
I have a pair of the wide (G) suede ones I picked up on a closeout from CT a ways back - suede is definitely darker than the pics, not quite a deep chocolate but closer to Smudge's shots..perhaps a wee bit darker. Shoes are very, very comfortable and the last is attractive - not too elongated or blobby - and they have held up well. In fact, I'd love to get a pair in brown calf with danite soles as winter beaters but I can only find Kemptons in an F rather than the...
I have plenty of both and find that the sizing is all over town. I am a pretty standard 34 and have that size in both Incos and Zegnas, of which the Incos generally run a tad small (1/2"-ish) and some of the Zegnas (including those made by Incotex) a bit big...maybe a 1/2" or better. The cotton zegna's seem to run bigger than the wool ones. As a rule, I buy Incos one size up - in a 52/36 - and find that it generally works well. Although the Romanian pants are...
Shoot -- gone! Apologies for not pulling earlier!
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