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Posts by tailorgod

Quote: Originally Posted by George This is tricky. In Germany (your country?) craftsmeister has a very specific meaning regardless of the craft, which is not so now in Britain. One of my tailors, one of many could be called a master tailor as he cuts, sews and fits his clients. He makes the trousers and the coat, in fact no one else touches the garment. There ar only a few craftsmen left in England who can do this or are willing to do this and I'm not...
Quote: In some threads, that makes him a master tailor. Just curious: What makes a tailor a master tailor? I know the SR steps from apprentice to coat or trouser maker and then to (under) cutter. Is it just the years spent in the cutting room? I'm wondering because in other countries you'll have to take special classes and pass an exam which not only includes the cutting and tailoring bit, but also accounting. This way you can start your own...
Quote: Originally Posted by voxsartoria You have to put your suggestion on parchment. Seal it with wax. Then, Manton will present it formally on your behalf in top hat and tails. You obviously have no gift for ceremony. - B Rumour has it that they actually use them already. Problem is that you can mess things up if you do not know how to use them. But that is not A&S specific. Fact is that a well made, tried and tested block...
[quote=S. Able;2895668] Quote: Originally Posted by tailorgod Can you tell us how you draft patterns. Do you use some sort of CAD computer program? I for one think pattern drafting/making is an enormous part of a sucessful bespoke product. I don't do much drafting at the moment and if I do it's by hand. I use my 1954 Rundschau cutting manual, since I'm not too happy with the actual Rundschau cutting systems . I still have to try the Italian...
Quote: What is A&S "blabbing" to the world? They don't say much to the media at all, from what I can tell. Anyway, it is precisely my point that you don't know what other firms are saying or doing--since you don't, why single out A&S? Use any search engine for Anderson and Sheppard and you'll find an almost endless numbers of almost identical articles about A&S where either John Hitchcock or Anda Rowland are talking about the special features of the...
Quote: Originally Posted by RSS Both coats have what I believe is called a fish cut. They begin about 1.5"+ below the arm ... and end at the flap of the hip pocket. Neigher cut extends through the bottom of the coat ... so I don't think this is a side body ... however, I defer to the tailor. My measurements for the record: Chest: 41" Waist: 32" Maybe tailorgod can change post to show picture of great over big bunny in post...
Quote: Originally Posted by RSS Older Coat: A&S / 1984 / House Tweed / SB / 2-button Newer Coat: A&S / 2005 / House Tweed / SB / 1-button Chest & Back: The general measurements of the two coats are similar ... in that the chest measurements from underarm to underarm are the same ... as are the waist measurements. However if measuring arm to arm ... the newer coat is more than 1" wider across the chest ... 1" narrower across the back. Oddly the older...
Quote: Originally Posted by RSS As hws might say. Tailorgod, maybe you and FNB can make the sex together. No,no! Me not like make love to man. And he very big man! Me afraid will be! ME DELICATE LIKE FLOWER!
A summary of what is said by or about A&S: BlaBla, A&S, blablablablabla, drape, bliblablubla, comfortable (about 1 million times), blaBlabblabla, Fred Astaire, blablabla, soft shoulder, blablablabla, unique, blablabla, high, tiny armhole, blablabla, full range of movement, bliblablub, huge sleeve, blabliblubbla.... Which is nice for small talk during a party or board meeting. For the latter, due to time constrains, I'd like to suggest that you number each...
Cutting a decent sleeve for an awkwardly shaped armhole is almost impossible. The armhole should be snug around the around the body/ arm, only then a sleeve (huge or not) can provide it's full range of movement. For some reason I do not know, the actual A&S patterns shown on their website or in BBC features have a very wide armhole, that is extended to the rear. This way it can never "hug" the body lines. Check the pictures of Vox's Steed coat and compare them to the...
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