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Posts by tailorgod

Sadly, with the latest "fashion" of cutting coats, men with a stronger chest (or waist or hips) don't have too many options left but leaving their coats unbuttoned. It seems that almost all RTW clothes nowadays are cut for stick-like guys. But, there is hope! Somewhere on the internet fashion fora is a man who knows all about tailoring or at least enough to instruct his alteration tailor how to let out the chest and length of a RTW coat.
The man who made "pull" royal: A devoted follower of that style on his left!
I quite don't understand where all those questions about alterations come from. And where you guys find a "tailor" who actually goes for it. It's most likely the same who widened the chest?! Why would anyone possibly buy a coat that is too short in the first place. Unless it is bespoke and there are outlets (also known as inlays) at the facings (and even then), it is just a silly thing to do. The most you can let out is about 2cm, and only if the lining has sufficient...
cazzata sf ! stupidaggine: stupid thing, something stupid dire cazzate: to talk crap! ha fatto un'altra delle sue cazzate! he's boobed again!, he's ballsed things up again quel film è una vera cazzata: that film is a load of crap!
Quote: Originally Posted by GQgeek those sleeves look retarded. They're not spalla. Shall we call them "manica cazzata"?
In case that wasn't enough: Pull: Pull and (whatever you call those) sleeves:
The reason why I don't like a waterfall sleeve on a business suit is the same why I don't like a drape cut on it: It gives the appearance of (what's the term again, ah yes) "relaxed fit"! And that clearly belongs into the realms of leisure wear. Imagine yourself in a board meeting. The numbers of your department aren't that great. Do you want to sit there in one of those soft sloppy wide cut shoulder and chest coats with a waterfall sleeve...
While it's save to say that there is no "good" pull, we can probably agree that there is a "good" manica camicia and a "bad" one (the latter being just a badly set sleeve with too much width overall). These are examples for both! I can live with the example on the right. I just wouldn't use it on a business suit. Even if that means it lacks a significant Neapolitan styling element!
Perhaps the OP can point out where he needs the additional width? Front or back? Does make the answer easier without causing further confusion (I hope)! An older tailor colleague of mine used to stretch the front chest with the iron or even with his knee. The success depends mostly on the fabric and the way the coat was constructed. RTW companies lay out their patterns in the most effective way possible, they struggle for every cm. Because 1cm per garment saved...
Early comparison of Roman (structured) and Neapolitan (soft, drapey) tailoring (in English): IMPORTANT NOTICE: No media files are hosted on these forums. By clicking the link below you agree to view content from an external website. We can not be held responsible for the suitability or legality of this material. If the video does not play, wait a minute or try again later.       I AGREETIP: to embed Youtube clips, put only the encoded part of the Youtube URL, e.g....
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