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Posts by tailorgod

Quote: Originally Posted by Bull Another great "drape" specimen... Don't worry, in a while she'll look like this:
Quote: Originally Posted by voxsartoria Ooops. Oh, here's a sequence of someone working on an uncanvassed top for Miss Perry: The tailor with the tats and the black wifebeater patting up the boobies? Our very own tailorgod! I really didn't know that his hair was that long, though. - B Hair and tatties were my disguise! How else would I have gotten the job? Seriously, you just envy me for this experience! Covering my...
So that's what a drape suit is for: Preventing you from getting fired. Must have an effect similar to this:
Vox got it easy. Broad chest and a well cut (drape)suit , while others may need this to be noticed in the first place: Generally speaking!
Quote: Originally Posted by voxsartoria Sadly, I have seen this allegory play out too many times. The embattled department head with numbers that aren't too great in his (or increasingly, her) uptight, structured suit facing the board in their softly tailored numbers. If you are one of these department heads on the way out, take the following act as a bad sign: when one of the board members in his drape suit asks for a martini during your presentation. ...
If anything at all, that is "push"! Try harder!
This is an original 30's suit and it has indeed some waist suppression. According to my cutting manuals there were different levels of waist suppression, but still, there is only so much you can take out before it gets ugly. The catwalk models are very skinny and despite showing a sixpack they have a rather relaxed posture. They arch the back, which influences the balance. In this case the back of the coat gets too short and causes some of the pull at the closing button.
I think this is the sort of "pull" at the button Manton was writing about? And yes, it's difficult to get it right.
I think I just found a solution to stop wars (drape and more serious ones): Show some "tatties"! Back on the subject of "pull" (and combining it with the peacemaker): Here you see the result of way too much pull!
Sadly, with the latest "fashion" of cutting coats, men with a stronger chest (or waist or hips) don't have too many options left but leaving their coats unbuttoned. It seems that almost all RTW clothes nowadays are cut for stick-like guys. But, there is hope! Somewhere on the internet fashion fora is a man who knows all about tailoring or at least enough to instruct his alteration tailor how to let out the chest and length of a RTW coat.
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