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Posts by tailorgod

Try this approach then:
This suit was presented on the last world convention of master tailors in Salzburg: on the subject of open quarters...
Pull! and drape... as it was meant to be!
Manton, apart from the obviously nice cloth and pattern, what made you choose a gun club? I think it would have been much saver (for both sides) to start with plain cloth for the first commission! In the meantime I recommend reading Chris Despos' summary again! He explained your "drape"! For all those who'd like to see how a balanced (and very well made, too) coat should look like:
Quote: Originally Posted by mafoofan Exactly. If you had to recut the fronts to do what Tailorgod is illustrating, you would also adjust them to keep the collar fit correct. On the other hand, if you were to use the existing fronts, they would have to be shifted up at the shoulder seam, which would not allow the buttoning point to stay in the same place. Actually, one way to use the existing fronts would be to let the shoulders out, along with...
Drape, according to your definition is a vertical fold giving extra room. I can see that on Vox's and Foo's coats but not on the A&S version of Manton. Not in the front, not in the back. This is from the film "Matrimonio all'italiana" and it shows an image of a coat worn by Marcello Mastroiani. Marcello had a similar round back with some sort of lack of flesh at the sides, which makes it very hard to get this result: The sleeves are cut in a way to allow for extra...
I don't have Foo's foofing skills, but still! I corrected the run of the stripes to match them with international tailoring standards. As it turns out, the waist suppression is at a minimum in the front(s): The massive problem now is the collar being half a mile away from the neck (which can not be corrected easily, if at all, since they have shortened the lapel fold to the maximum). You can also see that the shape of the front edge is mirrored in the patch...
Every time I read about drape in those end- and pointless discussions I get more and more confused. That is mainly because each and every time the definition of "drape" is changed to excuse either the abundance or the lack of it. But first: How come that, when critics claim that there is too much swelling (read: drape) in the chest, the reply is: "I want it that way, it's perfect!" The same answer the critics get, when they claim there is no...
Since not all women are blessed by nature like Katy and, unlike Ms. Paraguay don't have the financial background or courage to change that surgically, here is an early version of the push-up bra: If it looks too good to be true, it probably isn't!
In a world of recieved wisdom taken from the internet, I feel obliged to add that our esteemed forum member Voxsartoria (admired and envied by so many (not me though) for his wit, suits , perfect bone structure and last, but not least, his hair style) was (hopefully) merely joking when reporting that I was the woman plastering Katy's breasts. I feel the deeply felt need to apologise for picking up and continuing that joke. A special apology goes out to all those who...
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