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Posts by tailorgod

Quote: Originally Posted by jefferyd AFAIK, A&S never cut for the Duke. Bad example. Sorry, my bad! I guess they have one of these mirrors? Maybe Nono Curvato has one, too?
Now that I have your attention: We don't hate drape nor A&S and I will never say so! So far we have seen more stuff from A&S that was a bit "awful" than that we were shown top notch garments. My theory remains that not everyone has the body to wear (A&S and Englishcut) drape and that thinner fabrics will look even more messy given the techniques their tailors use. The "giving" shoulder seam will give when the sleeve is set in and is likely to cause some...
Compared to what we can see elsewhere being proclaimed as "drape" I must say: If at all in Germany it would be called "Drapinchen"!
Quote: Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum It depends what your hypothesis is. If the hypothesis is "A&S are incapable of making a suit that fits" then it is probably false, but if the hypothesis is that "A&S will occasionally deliver (and charge full price for) a suit that most tailors would be embarrassed to even let out the front door", then the single picture above appears to prove that. Maybe one of the A&S customers, who thinks his suit...
Quote: Originally Posted by voxsartoria Hmmm...you seem to have some insider knowledge. - B Let's just say it's part of my job to spot the differences... Hang on, there is a secret handshake?
Quote: Originally Posted by edmorel my chest hair causes tailors to give me drape unknowingly. That's different hair where the drape is supposed to be.
Quote: Originally Posted by voxsartoria That's sweet of you, but I still like a bit of drape in a jacket. - B Actually, there is nothing wrong with a "little" drape. Maybe we can agree on: A fine chest can take a "little" drape! Question: Did Edwin DeBoise ever explain the differences between his cut and that of actual A&S and alike? As far as I know he was not an apprentice at A&S like the others? I guess he has a more profound...
Since this thread started with the subject of mythbusting, I'd like to do a little summary: 1. Nino Corvato does not cut a drape coat! 2. Some men care more about being liked by the MD of A&S than for the proper (in a tailor's view) fit of their garments. 3. A hand sewn seam can be easily replaced by an equivalent machine version without any loss of durability or flexibility. 4. A flexible shoulder seam has not really a direct impact on the overall comfort of the...
Quote: Originally Posted by whnay. Its Terry the Tit in the suit.
Quote: Originally Posted by jefferyd The Germans, who are obsessed with getting that line perfectly vertical all the way up and down have a way of dealing with it, but I don't think it would work with a belly of that size; by straightening the shoulder, which would eliminate some of the leaning, you throw some of the excess to the side instead of the front, where it is needed. I think stripes should be avoided for this type of figure for this very...
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