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Posts by tailorgod

It's only simple when the sleeve does match the armhole in crown height and width. If that's not the case, a re-cut of the sleeve might be necessary.In any case you'd need a skilled and experienced tailor. If you want the shoulders to be taken in as well the whole operation might take up to 3 to 5 hours.When the shoulder becomes narrower the armhole becomes wider (it's like a circle, you increase the diameter), which means you have to also let out the sleeve seams!The...
Looking at the pictures JefferyD shows on his blog I'd say that their sleeves need more attention in the future. It appears that one of the (negative) hallmarks of low price RTW and MTM are poorly set in sleeves.
The sleeve pitch is very important, because it has major effects on the fit of a garment. The folds in the back of the sleeve (as Despos pointed out correctly) means that you need a lower pitch. Decent bespoke tailors will not only mark the correct sleeve pitch during the fitting, they will also adjust the sleeve accordingly. Take a look at this animation. The regular position is the one with the black arrows. Low pitch is red, high pitch is blue: On a regular sleeve,...
The most obvious issue is the sleeve pitch, which is hard to get right. Many customers are not aware that they hold their arms a little backwards. In pattern making the reference point for a normal sleeve pitch is a point behind 1/3 to 1/2 of the front pocket opening, given that the jacket fits you reasonably well. Based on personal experience, telling the manufacturers to lower the sleeve pitch often creates bigger problems than leaving it in it's original...
Quote: Originally Posted by Manton The Mina coat bulges when the wallet is in. The Solitos are fine. Sorry for my confusion! This is a picture of the Solito: Forget buying suits from Rubinacci then! Gennaro truly did a great job. I like the Mina sleeves better, but the ones from Solito are still light years ahead of the A&S version!
Manton, I think you should buy 3 suits from Rubinacci, if only to solve the problem of your Solito coats bulging out from your (then flat) wallet... Is one of your Solito coats going to be a check? Would be nice to compare it to the A&S version.
Quote: Originally Posted by Manton That's not really a drape coat. And by "not really" I guess what I mean is "hardly at all." Wait a second: Extended, soft shoulders. Soft canvas construction. Vertical folds in front of scye. Looks like drape to me...
The proof that it is possible to make a drape coat for Manton that fits (I changed the picture to black and white and reversed it):
Quote: That is far greater than ever I would have imagined. This fall ... two days in SF ... two in Chicago ... five in New York ... that's between 33 and 44 suits a day. How many people do they see ... my appointments have usually been a hour ... so perhaps 8 to 11 per day. Well ... I guess that would be about right if they average 4+/- suits per person. How many tailors are present at such events? Just JH and Colin Heywood or a few others? We use a...
Quote: He told some of their customers have incredible body measurements and one of them was making Quasimodo looking like an underwear model. In the first episode of the BBC documentary on SR is a scene at A&S and the narrator is heard saying something like "...even the hunchback of Notre Dame would come out looking like Justin Timberlake"... And JH is saying in a video: "We are like plastic surgeons, we can make you look...
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