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Posts by well-kept

Pair 1 are EG - made any time before the mid 80s Pair 2 are C&J - made any time after mid 80s
So it seems to me as well. But in the early John Lobb St James catalogue, (from the 30s I believe), they refer several to times to broguing as lending strength to a shoe as it twists and flexes. I wonder whether the spaces created in broguing give the leather somewhere to 'go' in such circumstances, preventing tearing. Any thoughts?
Thanks for the replies. I'm not at all hesitant to wear it - the cut, proportions, lapels, stance and vents are all excellent, as is the fit. The tweed is a very subtle grey heather. Just curious as to when it was made. My jackets and suits, and my memory of those I've worn in my adult life, all have three or four sleeve buttons. The two on each sleeve of this jacket are not widely-spaced, btw, but "kiss".
Yesterday I picked up an unworn Magee Donegal tweed sport jacket with double vent. The sleeves have two buttons. Anyone know for sure when two button sleeves gave way to three? I'm guessing sometime in the 60s but a definitive opinion would be appreciated. Thanks.
True about the footbed replacement. The two pair you've posted look unworn or almost so. I assume whatever is on the sockliner is original.
Older shell is definitely a different substance from current production. I've ask Nick Horween, in a couple of threads, to please tell us if the tanning procedure has been altered. No reply yet. The old shell is colored differently, reacts to water differently and feels smoother, in my experience. It may also be thicker, hard to tell as edges can be skived.Those look great, btw.
One way to date Lobb St. James... If there are two royal warrants, Elizabeth and Philip, they predate 1983 but necessarily post date Elizabeth's corronation in, I believe, 1954. If there are three royal warrants, including Prince Charles, they post date 1983 when he bestowed his warrant on Lobb. New production has two warrants again, this time Philip and Charles, Elizabeth having withdrawn hers four or five years ago.
Yes, those are shell cordovan. Sorry for such a delayed reply.
Agreed. And none of us can know how those old shoes FEEL to their owner, quite apart from how they look. I tend to keep things until they can't go another inch, if I have some feeling for them. This includes old shoes, even when I have an identical, unworn pair still in the box, waiting in the closet for the day when the original pair dies. I don't really want to deal with the new ones, I want the old ones. I feel this way about my friends, my dogs, you get the idea. Life...
I agree that it's a mystery. Shell cordovans are relatively expensive and part of the cost is justified, in the mind of the buyer, by the idea that they will prove durable for many years. Not being able to judge performance is a bit like knowing that one BMW 330i will go 200,000 miles without much mechanical trouble while another will break down frequently and rust after a year, and nobody can say why, you just have to buy it and then find out.I've posted to this effect...
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