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Posts by well-kept

My experience with Nick at B. Nelson has always been positive. In addition to the quality of the finished work, the attention to detail is rarely found elsewhere. A client can be very specific discussing options - materials and methods. Months can go by between visits and Nick will remember a previous issue of balancing a heel to sole, and ask how they're wearing, to give just one example of the care taken. The fee charged by Lobb is high, but for those demanding a resole...
DWF > No surprise that you were a more diligent reed player than myself. I'd just hold a selection of tenor sax reeds to the light and buy those with the most even thinness. btw, not having touched my horn in many years, my own version of "the actor's nightmare", which I have from time to time, is of walking quickly through New York, late for a gig, and realizing that, even if I can find the club, my reeds are all decades old.
Yes, the insoles of my bespoke shoes - Lobb St. James particularly - still show the scraping marks, even after years of wear. Using the straight edge of, say, a piece of broken glass, on a cylindrical surface would, presumably leave facets, visible under magnification, which I don't find on the legs of my best Windsors. I assume a flexible surface was used to finish them. The spindles, particularly on the earliest chairs - pre-1780 - are another matter as they weren't...
DWF > re Windsor chairs, I love them and have a collection of over fifty, all Eighteenth Century American. The quality of their construction, and the respect the craftsmen had for their raw materials, give each of the chairs a life, evident after more than two hundred years. As goes without saying, they were made by hand, and as to their surface finishing I believe they used sharkskin as an abrasive.
The Warwick is lined. It is very similar to the Banbury except that the laces sit higher on the instep/ankle. I own both, and while I prefer the look of the Warwick, the higher lacing means it does not hold the foot in the boot quite as firmly.
Regarding discrepancies between the wooden lasts and resin lasts identified as the same size... wood shrinks across the grain, but not along it, over time. (A wooden cylinder turned on a lathe will be perfectly round in section when new but decades later will have shrunk to an oval.) Assuming it has been cut with its grain running lengthwise, a near certainty, a specific wooden last made years ago will now be shrunken across its grain, so a shoe made on it will be smaller...
Stiefel means boots in German, don't know if this makes it better or worse. Indeed, it's a second "N" word, always best avoided.
Beautiful Peals. They pre-date 1965. Size is 952 or 9 1/2 B, UK sizing. The Peal rtw models were made by EG from 1965 until the late 70s or so. I believe yours were made in the original Peal workshop. They supplied BB with rtw models as early as 1936.
It depends on what you mean by 'overseas'. Wright offered a line of English-made shoes, which did not have the arch-preserver construction. They were made by Sanders, not bad and not great. I've never owned any except the American production although I have seen shoes on line bearing the Wright name which look to have been made in Italy or in Asia. It's a safe bet that these don't hold up to the originals. I could offer a guess that as with other American manufacturers,...
The early, union-made Arch Preservers are excellent shoes. As is so often true, the older the shoe, the higher the quality. They are not easy to date with precision, but if you can find a pair with a sewn-in cloth label you will have made a score. They are generally on a par with vintage Florsheims from the same period.
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