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Posts by jefferyd

One of the reasons I almost never comment in the fit thread is that cameras can cause such massive distortion from one side to the other as to make the fit unreadable- the asymmetry that we see is clearly one of these instances. While no garment is perfect and we could find nits to pick on every single garment ever created, this garment is better than some of the things that we have seen from much more illustrious houses. Keep posting, Rory.
Most do a bit, but not as much as a bespoke tailor would.
Here's something.To show the results of ironwork, the trouser laid on a board with no ironwork, then sewn together. Note the silhouette (Also note that the trousers do not actually flare- it is lens distortion causing the bottom to look much bigger)Then I ripped them down, stretched the back thigh seam, shrunk the back thigh crease and the knee, and the front of the calf.
On the Smalto it is also technically functional. But how functional is it really? What can you actually store in that small pocket, and how secure would it be, considering the massive opening of it?
When HMX Group (the former parent company) went through bankruptcy, Authentic Brands Group bought both the HF and HSM intellectual property (brands). W Diamond Group was formed of the manufacturing arm of the former HMX, and owned the HF and HSM factories. WDG licensed the brands from ABG. WDG recently sold the HF factory to Samuelsohn, and Samuelsohn assumed the license for the HF brand. The Mahogany collection is fully canvassed and the Sterling is half canvas. The...
They're about 14,000 EUR new, so it is unlikely. You would have to make a LOT of pents to amortize that kind of investment.
The second Zegna is described as a notch lapel but the photo is a peak. SMH.
Depends on the original shape of the CB seam. Will it be effective in increasing the girth? Yes. Is it ideal? Not really, but it is better than the opposite, that is to say, suppressing the waist at CB which tends to create a mess. It's also better than not being able to wear it at all.
Fat tends to accumulate toward the sides of the waist , not in the middle of your back, so that is where adjustments for girth should really be done. Alteration tailors who mess with the center back seam to adjust the waist are generally being lazy, except in the case of sway back.
I was browsing Put This On and came across another fine example of what can happen when you take a steamer to an otherwise innocent garment. The following is an Oxxford garment so we can be quite sure the bubbling has got nothing to do with fusing. This is the result of someone steaming the coat and pant. It ain't pretty.
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