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Posts by jefferyd

Adding a dart without increasing the seat measurement will not help this- you need to increase the seat, which is too tight. The point of the extra dart is that when increasing the seat measurement on the pattern, you will also increase the waist- the extra dart allows you to remove that additional width in the waist but leave the ease in the seat. I could add a drawing if that would help you understand.
The pitch of the sleeve is off for your posture, and it is also too big. Nothing to do with the alterations. The wrinkling on the collar (end everywhere else) is because someone steamed this garment. It's a mess and needs a really good pressing.
The machines are calibrated so that you shouldn't be able to see the stitches on the underside of the lapel. If you can, it's considered a sloppy job.
Not really.The canvas is padded (stitched) to the cloth so you won't ever feel a distinct third layer in the lapel. Only a very experienced hand can tell the difference between a padded lapel and a fused one just by feeling it.
I tried to photograph that shirt you sent me but couldn't get the details. Now that I have some extension tubes for my camera I think I can pull it off, if you wouldn't mind commenting them, as you are the shirt expert.
En passant, si nous avons des visiteurs qui ne sont pas confortables en anglais, il y a plusieurs entre nous qui sont prêts à faire un peu de traduction. Laissez faire Google translate, c'est de la merde.
Hermes "Armholes, collar and buttonholes are hand done- the hand stitching around the armholes is so fine as to be invisible from the right side. When I asked if this was perhaps too delicate to be machine-washed I earned a look of utter disgust, the likes of which only the French are capable. Hand wash only, s'il-vous-plait."
The label is set into a pocket which is very laborious to make and serves no purpose other than to draw attention to the amount of work done on the garment. It's the tailoring equivalent of melisma- a "see what I can do?".The French are obsessed with the Boutonniere Milanaise which is also incredibly laborious and difficult.The pocket jets are finished by handThe linings are felled by hand using a type of stitch which is at least twice as long if not three times as long...
One thing that absolutely distinguishes French tailoring is the level of attention to detail, particularly in the finishing. English finishing is generally poor to adequate, Italian finishing is generally clean yet unremarkable, whereas French finishing is generally a work of art. The garment must be as attractive inside as it is outside, and a lot of the details tend toward displays of virtuosity. It's almost obsessive for them. I studied haute couture under someone...
For another alternative, try Suit Supply. I checked them out today and they have the closest thing to TF around and their prices are good.
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