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Posts by jefferyd

Hermes "Armholes, collar and buttonholes are hand done- the hand stitching around the armholes is so fine as to be invisible from the right side. When I asked if this was perhaps too delicate to be machine-washed I earned a look of utter disgust, the likes of which only the French are capable. Hand wash only, s'il-vous-plait."
The label is set into a pocket which is very laborious to make and serves no purpose other than to draw attention to the amount of work done on the garment. It's the tailoring equivalent of melisma- a "see what I can do?".The French are obsessed with the Boutonniere Milanaise which is also incredibly laborious and difficult.The pocket jets are finished by handThe linings are felled by hand using a type of stitch which is at least twice as long if not three times as long...
One thing that absolutely distinguishes French tailoring is the level of attention to detail, particularly in the finishing. English finishing is generally poor to adequate, Italian finishing is generally clean yet unremarkable, whereas French finishing is generally a work of art. The garment must be as attractive inside as it is outside, and a lot of the details tend toward displays of virtuosity. It's almost obsessive for them. I studied haute couture under someone...
For another alternative, try Suit Supply. I checked them out today and they have the closest thing to TF around and their prices are good.
Thank you. Yes, the back (which includes the back of the sleeves) are usually the weakest point in RTW. In the case of the POW jacket posted above, I did have to do some work on the back itself, but the sleeves were even better than the ones I cut myself.Thank you.1) Yes, I had to do some work on the back of it. Not technically difficult but it requires the judgement of a good fitter and not all alterations tailors have that experience. Ok, maybe few of them do. I manages...
This was a 4 grand OTR garment. What more would I have gained from going bespoke?
I edited my response to include a shot of the TF pad compared to RLPL, which is WAY bigger.The chest piece is one of the key elements, yes, but very precise cutting, sewing and pressing. And a very good pattern. Whoever is making the patterns at the factory in Padova is extremely good. Also, the chest this season is softer than it has been in the past.
RLPL.Here is a comparison.Ralph Lauren Purple LabelTom FordIn the TF pic, what I am pinching is the sleeve wadding, not the pad. The pad is above it, and is about 1/5 the size of the RL pad.
Plus a million.
I wonder how many of the posters whose immediate response is always "you should have gone bespoke" have actually ever, themselves, "gone bespoke".
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