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Posts by jefferyd

Forward shoulders. When seated, the shoulders can hunch forward and can cause the shoulder to twist, as is the case in the first photo posted. When standing naturally, if the twist occurs on one or both sides, it is because your shoulders are pitched more forward than was accounted for when making the pattern- this can occasionally be fixed by a tailor but it's not cheap. You will usually feel pressure on the shoulder point as well.
You could eat off the floors of all the factories I have visited in China and none of them had foreign investment.No.
You are seriously considering building up your arms only just so you can still fit in to your suit? Oh. My. God.Yes it does- I have close to 40 suits that I can't wear anymore. I used to be able to fit into off-the-rack sizes fairly easily but not at all now; if you are serious about lifting, you had better get well acquainted with an MTM or custom suit maker.
She is right.
Can't say without knowing how they will take the excess out of the waist.It's very tricky to do on finished pants- talk to your tailor about whether he would want to attempt this before making that kind of a change. Don't touch the thigh- it's far easier to reduce it than to try to let it out if it ends up too tight.
Adding a dart without increasing the seat measurement will not help this- you need to increase the seat, which is too tight. The point of the extra dart is that when increasing the seat measurement on the pattern, you will also increase the waist- the extra dart allows you to remove that additional width in the waist but leave the ease in the seat. I could add a drawing if that would help you understand.
The pitch of the sleeve is off for your posture, and it is also too big. Nothing to do with the alterations. The wrinkling on the collar (end everywhere else) is because someone steamed this garment. It's a mess and needs a really good pressing.
The machines are calibrated so that you shouldn't be able to see the stitches on the underside of the lapel. If you can, it's considered a sloppy job.
Not really.The canvas is padded (stitched) to the cloth so you won't ever feel a distinct third layer in the lapel. Only a very experienced hand can tell the difference between a padded lapel and a fused one just by feeling it.
I tried to photograph that shirt you sent me but couldn't get the details. Now that I have some extension tubes for my camera I think I can pull it off, if you wouldn't mind commenting them, as you are the shirt expert.
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