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Posts by jefferyd

Sonya, if you don't mind, I think I will take this one.Full disclosure: I once worked for Samuelsohn and I now work for the company that owned Hickey Freeman until we recently sold it to Samuelsohn. So while my opinion may not be completely impartial, it is at least informed (in other words, they are my competitor).Samuelsohn is perhaps unmatched in the value/price formula on the market. With workmanship on relative par with Canali but at a substantially lower price, it's...
Tailors use unbleached cotton for everything.
Someone had offered a suit for dissection to that very end *cough*@MZhammer*cough*
The photos show the darts added to jeans- I always have to do it on mine otherwise I would never get any to fit. I don't know what it would cost but it takes about five minutes to do (forget about trying to do it on a domestic sewing machine, however).
Go up a size or two until you find something that fits comfortably around your hips, then have a tailor take a pair of darts out of the waist- this reduces the waist but leaves the room in the seat. He can go straight through the waistband so it's easy to do.
Problems with the armhole, problems with the cross-back, problems with the shape of the sleeve relative to the armhole.Very far.If wide shoulders or padding or structure had anything to do with divots, this guy would have sinkholes big enough to swallow a car collection.
This, too, is incorrect. Improper fit causes divots, not width or padding or structure. See Frederick Scholte and Tommy Nutter.
This is incorrect.
The Brioni label is normally sewn on with a cross-stitch machine which looks like a hand stitch, not a zig-zag stitch machine. The Brioni interior is a trademark pocket which is fairly difficult to execute well- this is done on an automatic pocket machine, with a piping and saddle stitch which Brioni never use. The undercollar felt is cheap and sewn on with a zig-zag machine- Brioni does theirs by hand. Also it is what is known as a square gorge, again a cheap method...
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