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Posts by jefferyd

They don't know any better- the retailer doesn't have the full understanding of construction that a manufacturer would.
Let's unpack this a bit. How would heat cause this bubbling? If this were a fused garment and it was subjected to steam or they used really crappy fusing it might bubble, but this is half-canvas. In some cases a thin layer of fusible is inserted between the cloth and the canvas in the lapel area because it is difficult to set the machine properly on fine garments (and the result of improperly set machines is what you see here) but if the padding has been done correctly,...
I know a guy who makes patterns for a ready-made tailored clothing company who makes over 300k. Not fuck you money but not bad for a paper cutter.
This bubbling is the not the result of delamination (the bubbling sometimes seen on fused suits). When the manufacturer was pad stitching the lapel, a necessary step in full or half canvas garments, the machine was not set correctly and it created empty pockets where the stitches did not fully penetrate. In other words, in some areas the canvas has been invisibly stitched to the cloth and they roll as one, and other areas were not correctly stitched and the empty space...
I could be interested.
Since when?
Hickey Freeman is capable to doing a lot more than just the two main silhouettes that most people are familiar with only because those are the ones that sell the most in any given market. As Tony said, there are others that include the C body, and still others which are even more advanced. That said, when a label signs a deal with any manufacturer, the manufacturer does not just produce whatever they feel like producing and slap a label on it; what will be produced under...
See also: unicorn; leprechaun; fairy godmother
If it is flattering, then it is a good fit. Good fit does not necessarily mean following every contour of the body.
Vicki Vasilopoulos' film Men of the Cloth will be screened tonight, April 28th at 5:30 at the Chicago Cultural Center; doors open at 5 and admission is free. A panel discussion and Q&A will follow. Members of the panel are Vicki (the film director), bespoke tailor Chris Despos, me, Nicholas Hansen of Nicholas Joseph, head tailor Joseph Genuardi of Martin Greenfield Clothiers, and master tailor Rocco Giovannangelo of Oxxford Clothes.
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