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Posts by jefferyd

If it is flattering, then it is a good fit. Good fit does not necessarily mean following every contour of the body.
Vicki Vasilopoulos' film Men of the Cloth will be screened tonight, April 28th at 5:30 at the Chicago Cultural Center; doors open at 5 and admission is free. A panel discussion and Q&A will follow. Members of the panel are Vicki (the film director), bespoke tailor Chris Despos, me, Nicholas Hansen of Nicholas Joseph, head tailor Joseph Genuardi of Martin Greenfield Clothiers, and master tailor Rocco Giovannangelo of Oxxford Clothes.
Absolutely right.
People talk about fitting a large sleeve into a small armhole in order to achieve maximum comfort and movement- the natural/bald shoulder has the smallest sleeve and least amount of fullness of all, and the rope shoulder has the largest sleeve and most amount of fullness. Draw your own conclusions about that. Sizing up will help certain things but make others worse. In order to fit my shoulder better, the armhole seam needs to be extended a bit and that requires some...
I couldn't disagree more. This is what I look like in natural/soft shoulders ,and the armhole seam is in the correct position for my acromion process.
Probably not. The widest part of the delt is lower down on the shoulder and this kind of shoulder expression has to be cut very close to the body- you will look like your delts are popping out of the sides of the sleeves which will be even more unsightly and draw more attention. Typically (and ironically) muscular shoulders need a bit of extension to create a smooth line.Having said all that, considering the fact that a wide shoulder-to-waist ratio is considered ideal,...
A bespoke tailor would be skilled enough, but the ones who are skilled enough to do that kind of work are generally busy enough making suits for clients that they don't take on alteration work. It's generally not worth the expense and risk to try to transform a RTW suit into something else.
Indochino worked ok for me because I was very slim at the time, and their very slim-fit cuts suited my frame. They would not suit a bigger guy, and don't be fooled into thinking that merely by adjusting a few measurements a slim-fit block can be adapted to fit a huskier frame. Disaster waiting to happen. You need to be seen by an experienced fitter.
Yes, of course. Regarding the Soft and Ivory, I haven't had a chance to compare them, but it brings up an important point; people forget that there are different categories and levels of make from every manufacturer. Just because one line is fully canvassed and has hand work doesn't mean all of them do, and doesn't mean that those lines won't change slightly from season to season. That's why I think the Working Hierarchical Whatever thread is flawed.
Sonya, if you don't mind, I think I will take this one.Full disclosure: I once worked for Samuelsohn and I now work for the company that owned Hickey Freeman until we recently sold it to Samuelsohn. So while my opinion may not be completely impartial, it is at least informed (in other words, they are my competitor).Samuelsohn is perhaps unmatched in the value/price formula on the market. With workmanship on relative par with Canali but at a substantially lower price, it's...
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