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Posts by jefferyd

The only RTW maker of which I am aware who leaves an outlet in the sleeve is Oxxford. Otherwise the most you could hope to get is 1/2" and that would might be risky depending on the type of cloth.
My previous employer considered buying them so we went to see them, their fabric suppliers, etc.
Bill's didn't actually do their own production- they contracted it all out so it wouldn't make sense for them to get in the middle.
I apologize if I sounded snarky, it's just that we've been down this road so many times before. We're confronted by a chorus of "but I do it all the time!" I'm sure if you went onto a car enthusiast's forum and told them all its fine to take their cars through the automatic car wash they'd lose their minds as well lol
It's on the internet so it must be true.One of the best tailors in the country (in the world?) tells you it's a bad idea and you correct him because a couple of equally misguided guys on the internet tells you it's ok?
Both seam allowances are typically pressed toward the coat for a spalla camicia, rather than pressed open or toward the sleeve. There is also very little, if any structure.
The Brioni buttonholes use a different kind of thread and gimp, and as they stitch around the keyhole they pull the knot a little differently- it's the same technique I use on my own buttonholes, and I'm in the process of showing the finishers at HF how to do them this way and we're ordering the same gimp and silk thread now. I think they look better. I agree with the comment about the Tom Ford stuff and I was told it was a question of capacity- they didn't have enough...
I hear it all the time from retailers that it's becoming increasingly impossible to find decent tailors to do alterations in-house so they are getting backed up with work. If a store is not able to service their own customers in a decent amount of time it stands to reason that they would not want to take in work on "outside" garments. Fok makes a good point about the examples not being analogous (I am a tailor and my brother is a goldsmith so I am somewhat familiar with...
I've started to sew again.
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