or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:

Posts by jefferyd

There are a few who mostly lurk or just check in from time to time.
Darren is no longer in the U.K. so it's not terribly likely. He's in Chicago now.
When you are designing/making/selling half-canvas products, you are in a price-conscious market segment. The lower portion of the canvas is only one of dozens or more cost-saving areas, and it's not insignificant; besides the cost of the canvas itself, there is the additional labor cost of handling, basting, faxing the edges, etc. Savings can be found at every one of the roughly 180 operations and 35-50 unique components in making a garment, between the trims and...
Simon Crompton is an enthusiast, not a technician and is likely mistaken. It's not 100% impossible but very improbable that there is no fusing. Since they are unlined it would be easy to see. If someone has one, let's have a peek.
I don't know where that author of sartorialjournal got the idea that there are half-canvas garments without fusible but it's not true.
There is sometimes an outlet of an additional 3/4" or 1" on the inseam all the way to the bottom to widen the trouser. Best to check.
I'm sorry but this is absolutely incorrect.Hugo Boss is a notable exception in that most (all?) of their suits sold in the US have minimal seam allowances at about 1 cm or 3/8" but the industry standard is a minimum of 5/8" and some, such as Samuelsohn, have up to an inch at the side seams and center back. By taking a minimum of 1/4" seam allowance this leaves at minimum 2 1/4" in the circumference to let out. There is typically an outlet at the neck to allow for further...
The only RTW maker of which I am aware who leaves an outlet in the sleeve is Oxxford. Otherwise the most you could hope to get is 1/2" and that would might be risky depending on the type of cloth.
My previous employer considered buying them so we went to see them, their fabric suppliers, etc.
Bill's didn't actually do their own production- they contracted it all out so it wouldn't make sense for them to get in the middle.
New Posts  All Forums: