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Posts by davei

Anything you like, as long as they're not 100% cotton. In a sweaty, moving around situation (or even just walking around) cotton absorbs AND retains moisture (3x its own weight) which is just asking for blisters. Look for socks that are made of polyester blends which wick moisture away from the skin. Thorlos are nice running socks, but they're really thick and may necessitate a .5 increase in shoe size (this is for the super cushioned Running model... I think they're...
Quote: I usually wear a 36 -- I tried on a pair of Jil Sander pants in a 38 and they were still too small.  I guess that means that they're slim cut - to me it means they were mislabelled... Were you going by the converted Euro size? I've found Euro sizing to be all over the place, I'm a 31/32 but wear anything from 46-52 depending on the manufacturer (though I would say 50% of the time, I'm fine in a 48). IIRC Euro sizing is based more on the...
Why not go with 3 buttonholes?
It'll work, but I don't know if you'll get the desired look though. Adding material like that will throw the line off and you'll end up with something flared or bell-bottom-ish. I have some jeans similar to what you describe (originally sewn that way) but the "addition" is from the crotch down, which gives a huge, loose leg look. Ideally, the back inseam seam allowance on each of the pant legs should be slightly larger than the front, so you can possibly get away with...
I wash my shirts by hand, spin them in the washer to get rid of most of the water (like with jeans) then lay them to dry slightly before ironing them. They should not be damp (drying with an iron is pointless) but barely moist, even less wet than a wrung out towel. I then use the cotton setting on my iron (hot enough for me) and give everything a pass with the lengthwise grain of the fabric. Truth be told, I'm not so much concerned with speed as I am with a good job...
It's almost impossible to avoid fading with jeans - reason being, with traditionally made denim, the dye/wash does not penetrate deeply into the fibres, it just rides on top. With natural scuffing, sitting, washing, etc. the outer blue layer gets worn away to reveal the white underneath. This is the problem with ready made vintage - it looks fine at first, but since it hasn't been washed a zillion times (only sandblasted to look that way) the dye washes out and it doesn't...
Quote: won't hemming the pant like that show stitching from the section that was cut above the pant bottom? You would think it would, but the way it's done, only the original hemline shows through. I don't remember the exact procedure, since the only shop I know that does it is an hour away and I only make it there once a month. I'll see if I can find out how it's done and post a tutorial or whatnot. Working it out in my mind's eye, it would end up...
Get a eurohem or european-style hem. It's costlier (typically double the price of a normal hem) but what the seamstress/tailor will do is cut the original, detailed hem and move it up the required amount, so you retain the original look.
I would put a simple stitch under the hole/tear to close it, then take an iron and some steam to it to stretch it out slightly (the stitch will create a pucker since there's no seam allowance.) If the hole is really that tiny you may not need to do the ironing, since it's covered by the flap anyway, and the pants will likely stretch on their own with time. Just close the hole so it doesn't get any bigger. A fix like this is really trivial, don't expect to pay more than...
I see quality in terms of materials, construction, and context. Materials can be high "quality", but it does not necessarily make them more durable - for example, cordura nylon is tougher than cashmere, but which would you rather have in a sweater? Higher quality materials are usually more expensive, refined, rare. Their colors may be brighter, deeper, or more sophisticated. They may possess certain attributes that make them desirable (softness of cashmere, wrinkliness of...
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