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Posts by JORDAN MARC

Bulky coats do not guarantee warmth in subzero weather. It doesn't matter if it's made of heavyweight wool, shearling or a down-filled parka. Whether you're trying to get behind the wheel of a car or trudging through drifts of ice and snow, all of them are cumbersome and uncomfortable. What really keeps you warm are relatively thin layers of natural materials that allow your pores to breathe. Between each layer is a barrier of warm air generated by the heat of your body....
The roping shown in your Photoshop snap is too much for the cut of the suit. If you're keen on roping, it must be very subtle--a hint, a whisper--nothing more. If you can spot a raised sleevehead from across a room, it's too much. It works best in conjunction with a firm shoulder, not a natural shoulder. Think Huntsman, not A&S. And if the cloth of your suit is patterned, make sure your tailor matches the stripes or checks of the sleeves with the body of your coat. JM
The most sensible and stylish way to store ties is to cubbyhole them, rolled and facing forward, not curled up on their side. Ideally what you need is a partitioned drawer with cubbies measuring 4 1/4 x 4 1/4 x 4 1/4 inches on the inside. Whether you prefer wide ties or skinny anorexics, the silk needs a bit of room to breathe while resting. You also need to be able to hook out your choice to wear with a finger slipped in from the side. The partitions, sides, front and...
Zegna was known principally as a clothmaker and silk merchant, then moved into the menswear business much the same way that Loro Piana has done. Diversify and multiply the profits. If you want to find that luxurious fabric, call the Zegna store in New York City and ask to speak to the manager, who should be able to direct you to a source or two.
Margaret: Save yourself the trouble of slogging through the garment district. Head straight for Tender Buttons on East 62nd Street (Just off Lexington Avenue). It's Buttons Central -- gorjuss stuff -- in a twelve-foot-wide ground floor shop. Seek and yee shall find the best blazer buttons. Remember to buy extras in coat and sleeve sizes. JMB
If you're to be shod in bespoke shoes, then start with the very best bootmaker -- John Lobb in St. James Place. There are other excellent shoemakers, to be sure, such as Gaziano & Girling, Cleverley and Foster, but Lobb is tops. By the way, it's correctly pronounced Lubb, not Lobe. If you can't get to London to be measured, contact the firm for the itineraries of their representatives who travel to America and Japan. Although bespoke shoes cost big buckelinos, there is...
Are you sure the journalist who filed the story wasn't referring to a game preserve for mothers-in law? Y'know the adage about women -- if you want to see what the girl will be like later in life, take a good look at her mother. If Big Mouth looks like Marie Dressler, run for your life!
Shoes and small leather goods made of alligator, crocodile, lizard, snake and ostritch are best left to women, not men. Other than executives in the motion picture, music and oil businesses, real men do not waste money on exotic skin shoes. Aside from the flash and gleam factor, reptile lace-ups and slip-ons are stiff and uncomfortable. Belts and wallets made of the stuff aren't any better. Leave the exotics to women. And don't even think about a fur coat. A mink on a man...
There are several possible avenues to explore for silk-velvet: high-end upholstery fabric suppliers, such as Brunschwig et Fils; bespoke bootmakers, such as John Lobb St. James; Savile Row tailors; and fabric houses, such as Holland & Sherry, Scabal, etc. The French have long been considered the finest makers of silk-velvet, though I wonder if the millwork isn't actually done in China these days. The problem with silk-velvet for upholstery is two-fold, the dimension of...
Before you let a tailor alter the coat, there are several things to consider. First, do you wear the trousers on your hips because you carry a lot of girth in your midsection (read: beerbelly), or do you wear the trousers higher, on your waist proper? Do you have a flat bum, or does your backside protrude? What about your obliques, aka love handles. A handul, or do you actually have a waist? Do you carry a thick wallet and cellphone in the back pockets of your trousers,...
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