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Posts by Montauk

I myself just learned last week that Will will not be continuing the ASW blog, and (for the time being at least) will no longer be requiring my services as writer or filmmaker. I very much appreciated the complete latitude that Will gave me to write about subjects that interested me, but completely understand that that isn't necessarily the best way to promote his business. I wish him and ASW well. For those who would like to continue following my tog bloggery, which I'm...
In the photo posted above and referenced here, I am wearing a vintage flannel suit, not the coat featured in the videos. That garment is still under construction, so I suppose tragedy is still possible.AY
We'll be back up with new episodes next month. Just had to take a break for another project.
With all due respect, these videos ARE the topic of this thread.
I'll be there on Saturday with master tailor Rory Duffy-- the subject of my video series: "The Making of a Coat." Additionally, Rory is hosting an after party on Saturday evening. The invite below is from him, cross-posted from the video thread: Dear Style Forum Members, In order to properly celebrate the release of the video series I thought it might be fun to invite you over to my Williamsburg studio for an 'after party' next Saturday November 16th. I am looking...
I'll be with Rory both at the Styleforum Trunk Show on Saturday and the afterparty in Williamsburg. Looking forward to meeting some of you. In the meantime, here's what's gone live so far of the "Making of a Coat" series on A Suitable Wardobe. I’m pleased to report that Jeffery Diduch has seen fit to cross-post them to his excellent blog Made By Hand. Episode #1: Introduction http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2013/10/the-making-of-coat.html Epsiode #2: Dratfting the...
Perhaps "archetypaLyuppie" cannot access the videos because he is imprisoned, or otherwise institutionalized, with limited internet privileges. In any case, I wish him well. The purpose of this series has always been to demonstrate the process of handcraft bespoke tailoring. In my first flush of enthusiasm for the project, I might have made the mistake of announcing it here too early, and perhaps a bit too breathlessly for some. Big f*cking deal. Those who’ve accused me...
I think ermazine is the word you're looking for. It's an artificial silk made from wood cellulose that's more durable (and more breathable) than silk. Rory says he lines overcoats in twill, by which he means a sturdy, heavier-weight diagonal weave lining (as opposed to lighter linings, which are generally plain weave). It's the stuff we're using for my sportcoat.
Thanks for kind words from everyone. These videos are a pleasure to make, and I'm glad they're finding an enthusiastic audience here. Not sure what you're asking, JubeiSpeigel. The cloth for my jacket in the videos is an 11oz 100% wool flannel from Ariston Napoli. It's lined in a heavyweight ermazine twill comissioned by the RAF to line their service uniforms. Like any bespoke tailor, of course, Rory has dozens of books to choose from. AY
Here's the latest installment of the "Making of a Coat" series on A Suitable Wardobe: Epsiode #4: Cutting the Canvas & Lining http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2013/10/the-elements-of-structure.html New episodes are posted every Friday on ASW. AY
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