What is the story with Marty Mathis? Does he have a B&M store or is it more like a showroom. From the web-site it looks like things are custom made. I will be in Minneapolis on business and may stop in to see what it's all about.
I wasn't aware that Sid's shirts were tagged like this, but his shop is clearly the exception as they have outstanding in-house tailors and are all about fit.This is more to my original point of cheaper, sloppier manufacturing - the main line BB has more exact sleeve measurements. I am not sure I buy the bit about the buttons.
The question is so broad as to be almost impossible to answer with any specificity, but what the hell. The first three things are fit, fit, and fit. Make sure whatever you buy fits you well. That is, it is not oversized - shirt sleeves should begin at your shoulders, not droop down past them. Short sleeve shirts should go to mid-bicep, not to you elbows. Pants should be tailored to hit your shoe with little or no break - no puddling around the floor.Basic wardrobe...
We used to do this in college back in the day. It was upstate NY, so as soon as it got above 40 (F) everybody put on shorts. It seems to be coming into vogue now with certain designers like Michael Bastian.
Good point on Oak Hall. I visit Memphis on business several times a year and have stopped into James Davis and Oak Hall a couple of times because they have a good reputation. The SA's at OH are on you like a pack of dogs and don't let up. I once tried on a Filson jacket to see how it fit, took it off, and said "I'll think about it" The woman said to me "well, I think you should buy it." I am not going into Oak Hall again.