I'd second Frank Leder pre-orders (and if that's impossible, maybe just some of his sport coats?), and De Bonne Facture. I don't own any DBF, but I love all the FL I have. For me, those two (and SEH Kelly, but that's less of an option for NMWA) all offer clothing that is relatively normal and restrained at first glance, but perfectly done and never boring. That's a difficult combination to pull off.