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Posts by PaoloM

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Quote: Originally Posted by voxsartoria No. - B I have read a lot of crap on AAAC and SF about fusing and people seem to think the fusing process it like using Elmer's glue. Fusing is meant to replicate something solid, ie: suit canvas and collar interlining, which exist for the same idea, shape. The fusing process used at the factory I work with, which is a well known maker of high-end shirts for many famous labels and tailors SF'ers drool...
When someone asks me for a stiffer collar, even though it is MTM and technically each collar has to made same way (interlining and stitching, etc, not the actual shape); heavy fusing is requested on the order to the factory. We do this because we use the same type of interlining for each collar. We request light fusing when someone is worried about "bubbling" which is 99% of the time dry cleaner caused or caused by the customer not washing and drying the shirt 3 times in a...
Quote: Originally Posted by voxsartoria No. - B The idiocy on this forum from people that have no connection to the industry is really getting on my nerves, as well as those in the industry that view this forum just for laughs.
Quote: Originally Posted by comrade I can't speak for Chan, but fused collars do not soften very much. Besides end on end is not inherently a heavy fabric. The point of fusing a collar is to make it stiffer! Some places have a surcharge for that request.
Quote: Originally Posted by dragon8 Alumo is the best shirting fabric IMO. Alumo has great value and taste. While working with many vendors, I am unable to publicly favor one over the other, but I will say Duo Cento 200s, and Romentino 170s are some favs for my own personal use. Thomas Mason's old books are like H. Lesser to wool. Basic 100s and 120s, but the patterns are done perfectly. The colors are clear, and the patterns are done as they...
Quote: Originally Posted by David Reeves What does Paul Stuart charge for one of these? $307 through $427. We have some swatches from one mill that might retail higher, but it is a market price, since it isn't in our factories stock. We do have a constant stock of many Sea Island fabrics though at our factory.
It is indeed fucking great. If you are getting shirts made in it, they should provide collar and cuff replacement through the lifetime of the shirt. Paul Stuart does this. Adding on to the point Carl made...140's the highest I have seen it woven in. And it retailed for less than the 120s or 100s version. Also the white was much "cleaner" for lack of a better word, in the 100s and 120s, which retailed 1/3 higher.
Ah Style Forum, a place where law students critique how custom suits fit via pictures on the internet. I don't get why we have these threads discussing people's "fits" that have no connection to the forum. It's completely pointless and only puts ideas and terms into people that don't know much about clothes' heads' that make them question salesmen and tailors and look like idiots.
The National looks like the winner. Now does anyone think I'll need a reservation for 1:30-2:00 in the afternoon?
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