More correctly, Ugolini is a bespoke shoemaker with a long history of doing trunk shows in Japan. He developed the lasts in cooperation with Isetan Japan. Isetan wanted to do a RTW line, something that Ugolini was not interested in. Isetan tapped Vass to produce the shoes and Ugolini worked with Vass to ensure a workable product . Kalman Berta, produces the lasts for Vass.