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Posts by Despos

Try Uncle Boons.  I want to know if it's any good, never been myself. I know it's not really Union Square 
Joshua, what grinders do you use for brewing coffee in your shops? 
Everything about the shoulder is developed in the canvass. Shoulder structure and shape is more about the canvass construction first and everything else second. The cloth follows the line and shape of the canvass.    Shoulder is shaped by the cut in the canvass and how the shape is enforced by padding stitches and iron work to the canvass. Structure and firmness is determined by the weight of the haircloth or whatever  other material you use in the shoulder and chest....
For these reasons I prefer a Bonavita Immersion Dripper.  Doesn't require specific technique to get consistent results and a good clean cup. Sometimes adjust water temp accordingly for light or dark roasts. Rare that I have to adjust the grind.  I like that it is porcelain rather than plastic or metal.  Use for morning cup of coffee and use chemex when I need to make more than two cups at a time
Would take this approach with your suit jacket.     Does the cloth lend itself to patch pockets?  If the cloth finish,color, texture or pattern is screaming suit; would patch pockets look right with this cloth? Can think of very few cloth types that a suit with patch pockets would look coherent.   Do you know who would do the work?  How many tailors do you have access to and are they willing to do the work at a price you think is reasonable. Could see this costing much...
Don't use a V60 but use George Howell's recipe for Chemex.  His methods are easy to execute and he has done the research   http://www.georgehowellcoffee.com/brew-guide/hario-v60-02/
What you are attempting is the opposite of rolling the lapel from the top button of a 3 button to the lower middle button.   You are asking to make the lapel roll higher. You cannot do this by pressing. This is a function of the tension of the collar on the lapel. To create the lapel roll to a higher point you need a new collar that is longer. This is possible if the collar has outlets folded under at both ends of the collar. You only need to remake the under collar and...
Best to return jacket to the person who did the work and show them. Since I don't know what they did or how they did it I can't be specific of what needs to be done. It may be how the armhole was prepared before they attached the sleeve or just how they sewed the sleeve to the armhole. Only see one photo from one angle. What I do know is the sleeve has to be removed, the armhole worked in and the sleeve attached with proper fullness distributed where needed.
Did they shorten the sleeve from the top at the same time as turning the sleeve?  The problem is the sleeve is too "dry" meaning there isn't fullness distributed in the sleeve head and the sleeve is tighter than the body of the jacket creating the puckering on the back scye. Sleeve head is too narrow as well.  Has nothing to do with the sleeve head/wadding referred to. It's not intentional and a style of work, just a job poorly done
There are shades of brown that work better than others. Some darker shades read more as just a dark suit and need a close look to discern the true color. Very dark brown nailhead is a favorite.   There are business situations this is appropriate for and other business scenarios that wouldn't work. Majority of my clientele are entrepreneurs and have flexibility of what is acceptable for them to wear. Don't care for brown chalk stripe in general but have seen an exception...
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