or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:

Posts by Despos

Doesn't have to be that way
It bugs me to see shirt, tie or top of the trouser waistband  so I fit and shape the fronts to avoid this. Not every tailor or fitter thinks it is an issue. If you don't want to see this, ask for an adjustment at the fittings. Not much you can do to change the jacket at this point.  Have never had a client ask to see the tie, shirt or waistband when the jacket is buttoned but they do appreciate having the fronts cover these points. The fronts are still shaped with open...
Wish I had clients who accepted pulling at the waist button   If this jacket were balanced differently the fronts wouldn't open as much when unbuttoned. This contributes to the pulling and the button looks like it needs to be moved. Probably off from adjusting for the low shoulder.   What I hear the OP saying is current suits have inherent flaws that are normal  for a "modern suit". This just isn't so or shouldn't be an acceptable paradigm. 
That is not stitching it is a seam. It only needs to be pressed. There isn't anything wrong in that picture
The balance is off by a mile. They need to shorten the back to lift it off your hips. This will clean up the wrinkles in the lower back. Do not understand what you mean by stitching on the arms
There isn't much difference in the shoulder width going one size down. Sometimes only 1/4". These shoulders are too wide. You require at least one size smaller in this cut. If you alter the body of this suit the result will make the shoulders look larger in proportion to the trimmer body. 
Respect him a lot! Not only his actual work but his attitudes toward the industry are refreshing. He really runs his business true to himself.   Found his home and showroom he uses for his runway shows randomly roaming the streets in Paris last summer. It was pretty cool!
Don't see any reason to make an odd jacket length different than a suit jacket except as a personal preference,   We do make double-breasted jackets; as a suit or an odd jacket, a bit shorter than a single breasted jacket.
Why don't you try buying a pattern from a store like Jo-ann's that sells fabric? Making a pattern by taking apart a finished trouser will not be the same. The fabric has been distorted by sewing and pressing.   There are multiple steps to making a trouser for yourself. Learning to sew,and learning to adjust a pattern to fit. Have you looked into classes at schools or stores that offer training classes?
The gorge is the seam where the collar is sewn to the lapel. It has nothing to do with the button position.   The pictures you have posted don't show enough to diagnose any adjustments you might need. Post front and back pictures with your arms in a natural position. Have someone else take the pictures
New Posts  All Forums: