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Posts by Despos

There isn't much difference in the shoulder width going one size down. Sometimes only 1/4". These shoulders are too wide. You require at least one size smaller in this cut. If you alter the body of this suit the result will make the shoulders look larger in proportion to the trimmer body. 
Respect him a lot! Not only his actual work but his attitudes toward the industry are refreshing. He really runs his business true to himself.   Found his home and showroom he uses for his runway shows randomly roaming the streets in Paris last summer. It was pretty cool!
Don't see any reason to make an odd jacket length different than a suit jacket except as a personal preference,   We do make double-breasted jackets; as a suit or an odd jacket, a bit shorter than a single breasted jacket.
Why don't you try buying a pattern from a store like Jo-ann's that sells fabric? Making a pattern by taking apart a finished trouser will not be the same. The fabric has been distorted by sewing and pressing.   There are multiple steps to making a trouser for yourself. Learning to sew,and learning to adjust a pattern to fit. Have you looked into classes at schools or stores that offer training classes?
The gorge is the seam where the collar is sewn to the lapel. It has nothing to do with the button position.   The pictures you have posted don't show enough to diagnose any adjustments you might need. Post front and back pictures with your arms in a natural position. Have someone else take the pictures
Happened  
This is the main issue An armhole that is too deep feels like it cuts into your arm. Try the experiment 
35 is very reasonable if the job was done properly. 17 is expensive if the job was done poorly and you have to have it redone.    Tapering a shirt to the original standard takes time. Most low price work is taking short cuts. When we taper a shirt as much as you needed we have to redo the the hem to recreate the scallop hem line. This adds to the time it takes  to make the alteration
Vertical depth, top to bottom of armhole. You can experiment by raising the armhole vertically by pinching the shoulder and raising the jacket. Move your arms forward and you will feel a difference. Might help to have someone raise the jacket up on your shoulders and then move your arms forward. 
Armholes are too deep and the chest is a bit big, this makes the jacket feel tight. Jacket is fighting against you instead of moving with you.   You can get more opinions if you post in the Tailor's Fit Thread
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