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Posts by Despos

Looking at the yardage of the orders most all are making jackets only so the larger scale is fine. The weaver would have to specify if this cloth is meant as a jacketing only cloth or capable of holding up as a trouser cloth. If this cloth is stable enough to make trousers it makes sense to reduce the scale but I think the pattern would then only work as a suit or jacket as I wouldn't wear this as an odd trouser. If you create a poll to know how many would make suits if...
No, just opening the top of the sleeve but not removing them. Results will vary, it's a tricky adjustment. If there is no outlet on the front part at the neck it is not possible to shift the front shoulder.
If you find the right tailor, this can be corrected. Shoulder needs to be shifted (straightened) and squared. more fullness on back shoulder. This won't make sense or easily understood to you but an experienced tailor can do it. This happens with more structured jackets or padded shoulders too. Not unique to unstructured jackets.
You want more than 1.5m but probably not more than 2m.Hip measure is more important than waist. That is the widest area and determines how the pattern will be laid onto the cloth. If you get pleats you need more cloth than for plain front as you need more width for the top of the front panel and need to move the pattern to accommodate this. Cuffs will require a bit more length than plain bottom.Some cloths require you lay the pattern pieces in one direction and not reverse...
Chest is too small
Nothing wrong going with lapels, just my opinion or what I would do personally
I call it charcoal brown, has some blue in it too. Definitely is brown
Some things I have in stock Donkey flannel chalkstripe Worsted tan flannel 12/13 ounce Taupe and brown houndstooth 11 ounce Don't know how well the colors will render from these iPhone pics This has more olive in it but is a great color close to donkey from this book.
Those marks are intentional. When you tried on the jacket did it stand away from your chest? It looked like the lapels were bowing out and not laying flat?
If you have a full chest, u shape is more difficult to fit, would discuss with the maker. You did say you have an athletic build. Can't think of anything less elegant with a dinner suit than low rise flat front trouser. Suggest a higher rise single pleat. The rise will effect the length of the vest and the overall proportions. Vest with peaks, cummerbund with shawl. No lapels on either. They don't show and add bulk where you want the jacket to lay flat against your...
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