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Posts by Despos

The  notch, distance along the gorge from the tip of the lapel to the point the collar starts,  is too deep and the gorge is too high, makes it look off. 
Submitting a few photos that show what I was trying to describe in previous posts.   Back view of how the vents look when the back is cut wide enough at the hem to wrap around the seat    This client has very prominent blades     Look at the break line of the lapel and how it runs straight from the collar to the button. helps to keep the jacket close on the neck and hug the chest. Emphasizes  the upper chest and shoulder and doesn't exaggerate the chest. This...
As you mentioned, riding jackets and also traditional ivy league styling. The very conservative ivy league cut had a hook center vent. Same as done on a set of tails. 
Client preference first, congruent with preferred style of jacket. Body type. Have only 2 or 3 clients that ask for center vent or no vent. Sometimes they ask for no vent on a tuxedo. Still it's the clients personal preference
Nice, he wears this well. Looks relaxed but  elegant
Would be harder to fit a center vent for your build. The short front balance would make the center vent spread open. Center vents will show up whats off with the jacket balance more than side vents. Even harder if you have, as you have said, wide hips
Yep, nobody leaves outlets there.   The chest line can be changed but requires a new collar and the lapels will be 1/2" more narrow if you did. Alteration not recommended
Every element of the jacket looks off to my eye. The high button point and the low gorge minimize the expanse of the lapel, they look too short in relation to the overall jacket. Raise the gorge, lower the middle button and add 1" distance between the middle and upper show buttons. Shorten the jacket 1/2". The shoulder effect is so round it makes him look less fit and heavier. Add 1/2" to the lapel width to balance with the chest proportion. The focal point now is at the...
Have no idea. Don't measure jackets this way. In a trim cut you may wear a 42 and a 40 if the jacket has an easy cut. When you don't wear a collared shirt under a jacket it almost always looks like the jacket collar has a gap but the realty is, it may not.
Correct me if I'm wrong but when you reference the space in the chest I believe you are looking at the point at the bottom of the armhole and across the front as the chest. I would add to the chest from the line of the breast pocket up to the gorge, where the collar meets the lapel.The breakline coming from the gorge downwards to the button has this  slight curve like this ( ) rather than making a straight V line from the collar to the button. This narrows the width of the...
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