or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:

Posts by Despos

There is nothing special about his styling. Anybody should come close to replicating this. 
Yes, they look like 3.75. Shia's could be less in relation to his chest size but I'm not sure.     MTM uses block patterns and shapers. It is better to stick with their standard way of doing things for the best result rather than start to specify gorge height and angles. Just pick the lapel width you want and let them do the rest.
Prefer higher wool content in the blend than mohair and the more important variable is the quality of the wool used in the cloth.   The 90% was difficult to tailor, it really was like sewing a rubber mat. Don't know how the Tonik wears, only made one and didn't want to use the Tonik cloth again. Actually I don't use or have the Dormeuil line anymore.   Sold two mohair suits this week, one Harrison's Cape Kid and one from Thomas Fisher Cape Breeze books. Will see how...
Looks closer to 3.75, than 3.5, especially the Tom Ford jacket.  The gorge angle will contribute to how wide the lapel will look. Shia's gorge line angles upwards from the notch point towards the neck. More Italian nature. The more horizontal the gorge line is the wider the lapel will look. The distance from the upper corner/edge of the lapel to the point the collar starts can also be adjusted to balance the look of the lapel width. It's simple to control if you comprehend...
Made the 90% cloth up and think it was one of the worst cloths I have ever worked with. It was malleable like a rubber mat.
Google "safari jacket"  use images to see all the variations.  First two jackets that came up on my search were almost identical to the images you posted. One from Orvis and the other from Cabela's
Drapers 5-Star book is now withdrawn and discontinued. Draper's rep was in cleaning up the sample books and discarded this book yesterday.  Hobart sample book preceded 5-Star ands was every bit as good or better.
Suit is finished  
Didn't want to comment in this thread because it is about Newcomer but since you are discussing Moose, will add some details.   First I would ask Moose if the left shirt sleeve is caught up on his watch as most men wear a watch on the left wrist.   Back story is Moose had a shirt made from another shirtmaker. The sleeves were very long and the cuffs were 10 3/4". When I measured his wrists I wouldn't have made the cuffs any bigger than 9 1/2". The shirt cuffs were...
New Posts  All Forums: