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Posts by Despos

Client preference first, congruent with preferred style of jacket. Body type. Have only 2 or 3 clients that ask for center vent or no vent. Sometimes they ask for no vent on a tuxedo. Still it's the clients personal preference
Nice, he wears this well. Looks relaxed but  elegant
Would be harder to fit a center vent for your build. The short front balance would make the center vent spread open. Center vents will show up whats off with the jacket balance more than side vents. Even harder if you have, as you have said, wide hips
Yep, nobody leaves outlets there.   The chest line can be changed but requires a new collar and the lapels will be 1/2" more narrow if you did. Alteration not recommended
Every element of the jacket looks off to my eye. The high button point and the low gorge minimize the expanse of the lapel, they look too short in relation to the overall jacket. Raise the gorge, lower the middle button and add 1" distance between the middle and upper show buttons. Shorten the jacket 1/2". The shoulder effect is so round it makes him look less fit and heavier. Add 1/2" to the lapel width to balance with the chest proportion. The focal point now is at the...
Have no idea. Don't measure jackets this way. In a trim cut you may wear a 42 and a 40 if the jacket has an easy cut. When you don't wear a collared shirt under a jacket it almost always looks like the jacket collar has a gap but the realty is, it may not.
Correct me if I'm wrong but when you reference the space in the chest I believe you are looking at the point at the bottom of the armhole and across the front as the chest. I would add to the chest from the line of the breast pocket up to the gorge, where the collar meets the lapel.The breakline coming from the gorge downwards to the button has this  slight curve like this ( ) rather than making a straight V line from the collar to the button. This narrows the width of the...
[[SPOILER]] The back panels are cut too narrow from the waist down. The back part is falling on the prominent part of your seat and flares away. If you could add about 1 1/2" at the hem of the back panel on each side it would wrap around your seat and lay close to the body. At least that's the way I do it. Pretty sure you won't find enough outlet to adjust this jacket.Also looks like short jacket fronts. The roll of the lapel is excellent. It's a good thing when the lapel...
Removing the shoulder pad will add to the divot in the sleeve and won't improve the fit, unless you have very square shoulders. The jacket is tight and distorting the armhole and that puts stress on the sleeve cap creating the divot. Sleeve cap needs to be shorter and the sleeve made wider
Best to buy jackets knowing your chest size than by the point to point shoulder width. The shoulder width can vary by shoulder slope or stylistic choices. Very square shoulders would measure less than sloping shoulders as the arc of the slope is longer than the straighter line of square shoulders.  Chest size can vary according to how much ease/drape is in the pattern.
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