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Posts by Despos

Dupioni silk in the Drapers line. It's few colors in their linen book.
Two things about the way this jacket is done. They may not have had enough cloth so they turned/reversed the lapel pattern and cut them in the opposite direction of the rest of the pieces. The light colored stripe is on the opposite side on the lapels as the other pieces of the jacket. The pocket pipes are cut on the bias and disrupts the flow of the stripe pattern. Patch pockets would have been an ideal opportunity for pattern matching. Don't want to diminish your...
There are two greys in the Scabal gabardine book that are perfect for trousers in that weight. They are not regular gabardines as they have a mottled appearance. I call them a doeskin gabardine. Really great for trousers. Will supply cloth numbers when I have the book with me.
You would be better off having replacement collars made.
^ Yes, it isn't as simple as a measurement. It is about the angle of the seat and side/outseam of the back part as well as the height of the back part in relation to the front panels. Measurements wouldn't tell the whole story with any certainty. One visual aid is to look at the center back seam on a trouser. The more parallel the seam is to the vertical grain line of the cloth the straighter the back part is cut which will correspond to determining the angle the back part...
From recent experience would change this comment. Prefer Hanro to Zimmerli for same reasons as the previous comments
Yes there is a name. Contrasting collar. The cloth you see that curves around your neck is the collar. The lapel is the cloth sewn to the collar extending downwards to the button.
Point to point is taken by measuring across the top/upper area on the back from the seam where the sleeve is sewn to the jacket across to the same point on the other side. Some measure straight across from side to side and some tailors measure from the seam with the tape angled a bit upwards to where the under collar meets the center back seam and then across to the other seam where the sleeve meets the jacket. This is used to control the width across the shoulder. I...
Going MTM for your build will take several tries to even get close. You can consider this first suit a rough first draft. This is a good example of how measurements don't reveal the "depth" factor. The jacket is too small over the chest but very large across the blades. You may need the front panel of a jacket two or three sizes larger and the back panels two sizes smaller. This puts the cloth over your chest where you need it and reduces the back where you have too much...
FYI, it isn't the upper lapel, it's the collar. Surprised no one mentioned this but Doc alluded to it. This is considered in bad taste here as it's a novelty/gimmick to draw attention and not in a good way. If you must proceed down this path how about considering a contrasting texture for the collar material but in a harmonizing color? If this will be worn for business purposes, avoid wearing this.
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