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Posts by Despos

Several people have mentioned how well the QZ 150's tailors but I haven't tried it yet. Agree about the Supertronic. When it was discontinued I bought up 140 yards in 4 colors, down to less than 50 yards. Amazing cloth for the body to weight ratio and the hand. Perfect summer trouser The superior cloth from that era was the Bahama cloth from Wain Shiell. Similar to Rangoon but much better IMO Didn't like Amadeus even when it was 2 X 2 Crown Classic was very good but I...
You don't like it, the flannel?
Who knows or who can say definitely. It's subjective to the wearer.  Have clients who wear 14 ounce flannel year round in Texas and some who think 9 ounce is winter weight. Think most men look at the body the cloth has and then the weight. They get cloth that feels right to them. In Chicago it is common to get 16 to 20 ounce jacketings and wear them as outerwear instead of a topcoat. Pretty rare that anyone wants a suit over 16 ounce. Breathes? Really? 
That's one book that no one has ordered from in my shop. Topcoat weight for suiting, the weight is problematic for normal wear
This incident preceded the internet. There is a new paradigm,  to try a tailor like you try restaurants.   For the OP, this is what I tell everyone.  You will be best served if by trying on enough jackets so you can discern the differences in silhouettes to distinguish what works/looks best for your body type. In the process you have to learn what your fitting issues are. If you don't know what your fitting issues you won't appreciate the benefit of custom...
Looked up the definition. That's a good word to know Did not work there. Worked three years with a tailor from their shop who did work there in the 60's to early 70's but worked for him in the US. I know their methods and construction. My comment about being turned away from Caraceni was at the outpost in Rome. 
Shoulders at this stage look straight because they haven't been "worked" What you see now will not be there after the jacket is made.   You can tell a Steed cut by the sleeve seam being visibly forward enough to line up about to the index finger
Two Careceni's in Milan. Ferdinando and A. Caraceni. Ferdinando is run by a Caraceni daughter. The other is run by Carlo and Massimiliano Andreacchio. Carlo is married to another daughter of the original Caraceni.   Wouldn't call A. Caraceni a modern looking suit that this guy is looking for. It has a vintage pedigree much like an Ambrosi trousers. Musella Dembech  would be a more modern approach and look. The father was employed at Caraceni many years ago.   A....
The coffee is my own, picture taken at my desk. Two week old bag of Papua New Guinea Kunjin I want to finish so I can open the Wendelboe beans I received yesterday. This coffee is just OK.  The best part is the sweet finish after this coffee cools down
Link working   http://www.gladsonltd.com/videos/Huddersfield_factor.html
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