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Posts by Despos

From my experience I would not recommend Bamboo. The cloth grows as you work with it and it drapes in a limp, lifeless way. Did not care for the cloth I used.
JeffreyD and I have written enough about steam
Young guy from Japan who has a similar story to mine. He went to Italy at 17 and learned the trade, has a shop in Milan and travels back to Japan for trunk shows. He was part of the PITI Tailors Symposium   His work resonates with me. What I see on his site is the same system I learned so I appreciate that he is staying true to the workmanship he learned. Very labor intensive work he is doing.   There are a lot of small shops out there doing excellent work.   What's...
This is Loro Piana plaid. Most are adding blue to grey but they went with green. Brown and green over a grey ground with faint mustard decoration. Cloth is stunning in a subtle way.   
Don't disagree with most of what you say but don't totally agree either. Don't remember any of the extreme examples from your description of the Phoenix  cloth. Don't have the book with me, will have to revisit.The cloth is basic but the book has some gems in it that aren't in any other books. Cloth tailors well. Probably wouldn't even show the book to you because it's not your taste.  I try to find the best cloths in everybody's sample line and match it to the clients...
^   Only flannel I have used with that cashmere/wool content was Loro Piana and I liked it. Very luxe but soft but held a crease well. Flannel in general as not a durable cloth. Get the cashmere blend for the luxe feel but not to be a long wearing durable cloth. If you get a suit, get two trousers. As odd trousers they are great if you want a soft/luxe hand cloth.
I love making topcoats and have a few ideas floating around in my head at present. Some ideas are working with double faced cloth. Another idea is totally technical, as in a new technique to make the lapels and coat front.  Just don't have time to spend  on these pieces now.   Plenty of pictures of my topcoats have been shown online
This point I don't see as a negative.  Phoenix book is very wearable when you want something basic that you won't  have to make an effort to accessorize or fuss over figuring out how to wear/use the jacket. It's like comfort food. Basic but satisfying. I see this book the same way the Riviera book was. Not the same weight or finish of cloth as Riviera but serves the same purpose for me.Basic cloths/patterns with enough subtle nuance to not be pedestrian. The stuff that is...
Sending it to me to make up along with Patrick's? What you ordered isn't as tightly woven as the green. A bit softer to the hand. The mottled mix of color really makes a visually interesting cloth.
Good sturdy cloth. The small touch of cashmere is blended into the mix before the fibers are spun into yarns. It as added to develop the hand of the cloth but doesn't effect the wearability much, if at all.
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