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Posts by Despos

The result is probably linked to "drapey old man cut" being the DNA of their silhouette so they didn't have to tweak much to get there.
Think the LL linen is 10 ounce.  
Have seen all those pictures. My thought about the thread is a bit different, sort of an index of the different LL cloths made up on several body types. It will be a few months before any of these get made up on my end. Might give the thread a try and see if has any merit.   Have the linen and the 17 ounce flannel sample books. Have used and made up the linens more than any other cloth. To me it's the right balance of body to weight.   7 ounce linen is flimsy and the...
Substitute pressure for pinch. Downward pressure from the jacket shoulder pressing against your shoulder. There is more to this than the diagram shows. Sometimes you want to square the front shoulder, baste a bit more fullness into the back part of the shoulder and work/stretch the canvas over the shoulder point. When you  set the sleeve, a bit of fullness over the shoulder point helps too. Sometimes I let out the center back seam at the neck. This is how you get the extra...
I want some of this cloth too! What is it? Clients bring in the cloth but I don't have the names associated with them   Making up a bunch of LL cloth at present. What do you guys think of  a thread highlighting clothes made from LL cloth so you can judge how the cloth looks made up? 
It's the opposite. Curved lines are longer than a straight line. Shortest distance between two points is a straight line. The more curve to the center back the longer the back. 
The roll of cloth is from tension over your shoulder blades and can be corrected without touching the collar. You have larger, prominent blades and you need length over the blades so it's better to not lower the collar. Can't say for sure but It looks like they lowered the collar without touching the shoulder and now the collar pulls away a bit. Different photo needed to be sure.    They took in the jacket along the center back seam and threw the pattern matching off....
Where did you find this tailor? The work isn't very good and I disagree with the diagnosis/fix of the back. FYI, they lowered the collar, they didn't shorten the collar
The new pictures represent the suit better. It all looks good. Wear it and let Solito look it over when you meet. That's what I meant but didn't say it clearly. The pocket should be proportionate to the overall length/size of the jacket. we make the pockets longer, shorter, narrow, wider to look like it belongs with the jacket and try to avoid exaggeration  Wouldn't want it any closer but it wouldn't hurt to be 1/2" higher from the hem. Maybe this is intentional or maybe...
When it looks off to you. I vary with the overall jacket length and where the top of the patch pocket lines up with the lower button.. Sometimes 1 1/4" to 1 3/4" from the hem.
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