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Posts by Despos

Correct me if I'm wrong but when you reference the space in the chest I believe you are looking at the point at the bottom of the armhole and across the front as the chest. I would add to the chest from the line of the breast pocket up to the gorge, where the collar meets the lapel.The breakline coming from the gorge downwards to the button has this  slight curve like this ( ) rather than making a straight V line from the collar to the button. This narrows the width of the...
[[SPOILER]] The back panels are cut too narrow from the waist down. The back part is falling on the prominent part of your seat and flares away. If you could add about 1 1/2" at the hem of the back panel on each side it would wrap around your seat and lay close to the body. At least that's the way I do it. Pretty sure you won't find enough outlet to adjust this jacket.Also looks like short jacket fronts. The roll of the lapel is excellent. It's a good thing when the lapel...
Removing the shoulder pad will add to the divot in the sleeve and won't improve the fit, unless you have very square shoulders. The jacket is tight and distorting the armhole and that puts stress on the sleeve cap creating the divot. Sleeve cap needs to be shorter and the sleeve made wider
Best to buy jackets knowing your chest size than by the point to point shoulder width. The shoulder width can vary by shoulder slope or stylistic choices. Very square shoulders would measure less than sloping shoulders as the arc of the slope is longer than the straighter line of square shoulders.  Chest size can vary according to how much ease/drape is in the pattern.
Heat removes marks made by wax chalk but leaves a dark line where the chalk line was. You can remove the dark line by scratching in the direction of the warp with your finger nail.   If the residue is from clay chalk, apply a bit of water and brush the mark or use a cloth to rub it out. I like these clay chalk lines on my own clothes for this reason but wouldn't suggest to a client that he should adopt this point of view
jumped in and without a net!
Don't see any benefit of you trying MTM as you still have all the fit issues of a RTW garment. Time and money are better spent on a MTM garment that will adjust and adopt the suit to your posture and fitting issues.The adjustments needed on the suit are better made at the cutting stage and nearly impossible to correct as a post construction adjustment. Also necessary is an experienced fitter who can diagnose what you need and is competent to know what degree of adjustments...
Depends on the weave and quality of the linen. You may see the old seam line but not as bad as cotton.
This is officially my favorite post.
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