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Posts by Despos

There is more to consider when getting pleats. Choosing between reverse pleats (open toward side) or regular pleats (open toward the fly) should relate to your body type and how you wear your trousers. Regular pleats work best with a higher rise and a figure with smaller hips. I cut regular pleated trousers with a 1/2", or 3/4" higher rise than what you wold wear with a plain front trouser. Generally, a regular pleated trouser would have a side front pocket on seam. These...
What did you try?
You will look very American from that list. If you dress up in a way that comes across as dressed up here, you will look normal/everyday casual in Europe
There is no good way around this unless you remove the sleeves and shorten them from the top. The sleeve buttonholes are imitation and not cut thru so the stitching can be removed but the old stitch marks where the buttonholes are sewn will probably remain due to the nature of cotton and the tightness of the stitching. If you go this route you will still have to accept that the placket will be very short and look odd. They will be different lengths if the sleeves need to...
Do you think she tapered the sleeve on the inseam ? YOU NEVER DO THAT! The sleeve is only adjusted on the out seam which means they should remake the sleeve vent and also taper the lining. If it is taken in on the inseam and the extra cloth is cut out, you have very limited options. Only thing to do then is to open the seam and properly stretch the top sleeve and fit it to the under sleeve. There is some technique required to get the sleeve inseam to hang well Steaming...
He was from Rome. Still remember the silhouette of his jacket. No front dart but there was an under arm dart from the pocket up to the armhole, no side bodyFor personal reasons going thru the workrooms at A. Caraceni was sort of special. Very elegant and classy shop. The trousers they make may be the best, most impressive work I've ever seen. Everything about the workmanship was spectacular.Met with Musella Dembech who posts here. They are very legit. The father was at A...
You would think so. Then you have a day when you don't think you know anything and have lots to learn. Actually, just spent a few days in Milan and saw so many beautiful suits. Very inspirational. Milanese tailoring is not represented much if at all here. Really great styling and craftsmanship.
Yes, but only for 43 years.
I'm done with tailors who over promise and under deliver. I could do better with a potato sack and twine!Done with RTW and brick and mortar stores where sales people try to sale me something that doesn't fit to clear out inventory.Will get me an Italian suit online, maybe from the "Norman Walks Alone" site and at deep discount at the end of the season!
My go to jacketings for the last few years has been Loro Piana Proposte Giacche Collections. They are seasonal samples with a short run. 80% of the spring/summer 2014 cloths are sold out at present. They usually average 9 ounces and have several blend combinations and come in mill and clear finishes. The new Fall/Winter collection will be out soon. They also have a 9 once book called jacketing that is continuous stock. The cloth tailors very, very well. Patterns and colors...
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