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Posts by Despos

ermazine is similar, asahi is softer
No, there are other quality linings to use. This is the one I like. Express your concern about the lining shrinking to the maker and see what they say
Not since we started using Bemberg Asahi linings in the trousers over 30 years ago. Put a tiny pleat on the fork, along the out seam and at the waist to create ease in the lining. Steaming the lining before using helps too.   That's a problem I want to avoid
He probably didn't want to cut the excess cloth created from shortening the sleeve but he could have finished in a way to not bunch up.   If he trims the sleeve at the top the wrong way and doesn't have sufficient fullness when sewing in the sleeve it or if he changes the hang of the sleeve it could cause the issue you are having
Every trouser is overcast with a serging machine regardless if it is lined or not. It is the stitch on the edges of the trouser seams to stop the cloth from raveling. There is a thinner, lighter thread used for serging as the stitch is made up of three threads so it won't make an impression on the outside of the cloth. An impression can be made from the thickness of the outlet but not because of the serging stitch.   The bottom of the lining has to be loose to allow...
Shortening sleeves at the hem is relatively simple and straight forward. If they did this poorly would have wanted to correct this before attempting to shorten form the top. To shorten sleeves at the top requires experience to know how to trim the sleeves and shape them to the armhole as well as experience to attach them well. If they don't know how to set sleeves you have all sorts of issues. If the sleeve has been cut from the top you can't go back to the way it was, you...
The lining is a plus but the benefits aren't always obviously discernable. It contributes to long term wear as a layer between the cloth and your body. The lining is sewn into the inseam, outseam and the top waist and held to the cloth when overcast with a serger. The lining is open at the knee. I
The pattern on the facing matches the pattern on the body at the middle button and then the pattern repeats on it's own. Where it finishes at the gorge is random. The main vertical  pattern in the plaid is intentionally centered at the top of the lapel on both. Don't care for the look of disrupting the pattern or putting it more to one edge of the lapel. Makes the lapel look weighted to one side and awkward
3 3/4" on the LL   Close up on the P&H, Think these were 3 5/8".    If you want to get nerdy about plaid there are 7 lines of the brown dot pattern that runs on both sides of the vertical blue stripe on the lapel. This balances the central plaid at the widest point on the lapel. 7 rows on the outside collar edge too. This creates an equally spaced frame of the lapel and collar   Close up of back collar/center seam. You can see the 7 rows below and above the...
Recently made up both of those  LL is on the mannequin, Porter & Harding Glenroyal on hanger. The scale of the LL plaid is larger, cloth is noticeably heavier, a bit stiff compared to the P&H. The LL cloth is lighter in color tone and comes off "brighter"  Was told the P&H cloth is the original POW plaid.
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