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Posts by Despos

The adjustments necessary are to correct the jacket balance for your posture and adjust the shoulder to match your squarish shoulders. Your posture is erect and it makes the jacket fronts cross over each other in the front below the buttons. This also makes the wrinkles at the waist on the back part. You need a longer front balance but there are no outlets on the front shoulder so the only option is to shorten the back and it would best to do this at the top of the back by...
Nice suit Claymore! How are the donuts in Florence? Claymore is a good guy. He visits Chicago every so often to hang out. Not many have his passion for clothes and not be overbearing about it. The thing about Claymore is he would wear this suit anywhere, anytime. He would even play baseball in it and if it got torn up, no big deal to him.
The measurements don't reveal your shape. If your hips are round, flat, oval, etc. This is what determines the styling and fitting cues. The intent of my post for you was to select the style of trouser considering all aspects of the trouser. If you have wide hips and don't like side pockets and a high rise, don't get regular pleats. If you want a high rise trouser with regular pleats, is your physique compatible with this. The flat hip is the disaster you see when the...
3/4' deep or 1 1/2" total or 1"deep, 2" total for single pleats. 1/2" deep or 1" total for a second pleat. The more prominent your hip bone or bone structure, the deeper the pleat to compensate. Prominent hip bones do more to distort the look of pleats
There is more to consider when getting pleats. Choosing between reverse pleats (open toward side) or regular pleats (open toward the fly) should relate to your body type and how you wear your trousers. Regular pleats work best with a higher rise and a figure with smaller hips. I cut regular pleated trousers with a 1/2", or 3/4" higher rise than what you wold wear with a plain front trouser. Generally, a regular pleated trouser would have a side front pocket on seam. These...
What did you try?
You will look very American from that list. If you dress up in a way that comes across as dressed up here, you will look normal/everyday casual in Europe
There is no good way around this unless you remove the sleeves and shorten them from the top. The sleeve buttonholes are imitation and not cut thru so the stitching can be removed but the old stitch marks where the buttonholes are sewn will probably remain due to the nature of cotton and the tightness of the stitching. If you go this route you will still have to accept that the placket will be very short and look odd. They will be different lengths if the sleeves need to...
Do you think she tapered the sleeve on the inseam ? YOU NEVER DO THAT! The sleeve is only adjusted on the out seam which means they should remake the sleeve vent and also taper the lining. If it is taken in on the inseam and the extra cloth is cut out, you have very limited options. Only thing to do then is to open the seam and properly stretch the top sleeve and fit it to the under sleeve. There is some technique required to get the sleeve inseam to hang well Steaming...
He was from Rome. Still remember the silhouette of his jacket. No front dart but there was an under arm dart from the pocket up to the armhole, no side bodyFor personal reasons going thru the workrooms at A. Caraceni was sort of special. Very elegant and classy shop. The trousers they make may be the best, most impressive work I've ever seen. Everything about the workmanship was spectacular.Met with Musella Dembech who posts here. They are very legit. The father was at A...
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