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Posts by Despos

Slightly damp to create a touch of steam.  Don't move the iron around, just apply pressure in one spot. Letting the cloth dry after pressing is key
Did this happen after pressing or dry-cleaning?   Would place a press cloth over the area and put a hot iron on the spot that is bubbling. Leave the iron long enough for the heat to penetrate and soften things but not so long to burn the cloth or so long it leaves an impression of the shape of the iron on the cloth. Don't move the iron around just apply pressure on the bubbled area and see what happens. Can't make it worse, unless you burn the cloth.   Don't move the...
The stitch looks to be for cosmetic effect since the seam doesn't appear to be overlapped. Not certain if it is an overlapping seam from these pictures. Also looks like a fake hand stitch done with a machine. You can remove the stitches yourself with a pin. Personally, would prefer not having this stitch on a tuxedo.   Each stitch is a loop. Insert the pin in the loop of thread and pull but don't force it. The biggest concern is if you catch the cloth with the tip of the...
How do you plan to press them after washing them?  You may be surprised how difficult this will be.   The issue with washing tailored trousers is that pocketing, curtain and interlinings all respond to washing in different ways. Even the thread could shrink and create puckering on every seam.   If the thread or any of the other materials in the waistband construction or the curtain and pocketing shrinks, you may not be able to restore the trouser to the original...
Issue seems more about prominent calves creating a bow effect. The adjustment required on finished trousers is to open the entire length of the outseam  and inseam. You have to separate each of the 4 panels of the trouser. The front part is shifted downwards at the knee notch on the outseam. This makes the outseam longer to accommodate the length needed for the curvature of your leg.  The front knee notch is moved up/above the knee notch on the inseam of the back part....
Have used ever technique shown in these pictures.  The most common and what is used by most alteration shops or tailor shops inside of men's stores is the "loop stitch" which is done with a blind stitch machine. Reason to use this; it is the fastest to do and to remove. When you break one stitch you can unravel the entire line of stitching. You can hem a trouser  in seconds rather than minutes of time to finish the work.  Does not require any special skills  to operate a...
Novo is great and has several locations.  Commonwealth is a few years old, I order or buy their beans regularly. Mostly buying their Papua New Guinea the past couple months.They have a roasting facility but no cafe as far as I know. They do operate a cart, don't know the particulars of locations and times. May be used more for special events. Their is a list of shops that use their beans on their website.
Agiffy, so for a 9 month weight you are exempting the coldest 3 months in the year?  Looking for a lighter weight version?
If it is the same cloth I am thinking of, the Dormeuil cloth was a good one, made it up a few times but that was over 10 years ago. That cloth was flannel with 10% mohair. Couple pics of Drapers from Lady Sanfelice sample book  
I know Kaladi claims the difference in their products is due to air roasting. Had a full weekend in New York and didn't have time. Went to Little Collins for the first time and can say I have found my go to place for mid town. My wife loved the cold brew. Had a drip and a macchiato. Not mind blowing but good.Happy to have a choice other than Zibeto (always bitter) or blue bottle (mediocre at best) at Rockefeller Center Very impressed with the Little Collins food offerings. 
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