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Posts by Despos

[[SPOILER]] All the problems relate to your very square shoulders and prominent shoulder blades. Jacket is not cut to properly ft your shoulder and back. It is hard to make a jacket like you need and even harder to alter this one.
Loro Piana N16313, all wool, 120's,  8/9 ounce.
Loro Piana Jacketing Book. Have made over 20 jackets from these three cloths. At least a dozen in the darker navy blue. Cutting the brown check this week.   Suggested these cloths to clients as "jacketings in good taste" from a sound mind and a clear conscious only to learn from this thread they are "too commercial"  and come off as "eye-talian" in the most vulgar sense.    Will soon issue a recall and try to get them off the street ASAP and offer some suitable...
The shoulders are more sloped than your shoulders causing the roll of cloth under the collar,  need to square the back shoulder, maybe a bit off the front shoulder.  This will get rid of the roll under the back collar and help the collar come closer to the neck.  The chest is cut too small. The back blades have a bit of extra cloth. You need more cloth across your chest and less on the back part. Trousers aren't too bad. Seat needs to be taken in. Would be careful about...
Cloth has a measured tensile strength. I forget the actual numbers but if the cloth is woven for trousers is has a higher tensile strength. If below a certain number it cannot hold up to the stress. Trousers are stressed in a different way than jackets are.   Google "tensile strength of cloth" and you can read all the science to explain and support it
WM, thank you for the excellent photos of your sartorial adventure.   Have not heard of Tofani but I like the look and the way he cuts. Probably because it is closer to what I do than the other tailors you used. By comparison Tofani is more modern and Volpe and Pirozzi cut a more vintage/old school way. I like the close to the body direction he takes. Honestly, Tofani's work is the first Neapolitan tailor that looks interesting to me. The one area I wouldn't cut as...
With 60" wide cloth you would be safe to have 2 yards for trousers and 3 3/4 yards for a two piece suit. I think the rule for 45" width is to add one third more cloth. It is rare to find 45" wide cloth. If you meant single width cloth then you double the yardage needed for 60" wide cloth.   If the cloth needs to be cut in one direction  due to the repeat in any pattern or for the direction of the nap in the cloth you may need extra cloth.   Most important measurements...
the chest can cause this but the shoulders are off and contribute to the lapels standing away. Guessing the balance is off from the pictures here. Side and back view would confirm this.    It's a combination of all these issues.
Yes, just look at the pocket. The angle is reversed from a normal angle for the pocket. The froward angle of the pocket edge facing the lapel should be towards the sleeve and the angle of the seam where the pocket is sewn should be higher on the sleeve side and lower as it moves across the chest toward the lapel/front edge of the jacket. The original thread marks are  correct. The pocket is really weird, never seen this happen
since you asked it here I'll answer it here.  Cloth is cut in two layers, a top and bottom, right and left side. The chalk outline of the pattern is done on the top layer and markings for pocket placement are thread marked (that's what all those white threads are)  to transfer the chalk outline to the second underlying cloth. After placing the thread marks you separate the two cloths and cut the threads so you have duplicated the outline on both pieces of cloth. It is...
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