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Posts by Despos

Some chinos have a machine stitched hem as you describe and some are done with more of a turn up hem and finished by hand or with a blind stitch machine. If they were previously hemmed as opposed to unfinished bottoms when you brought them to the tailor, they would most likely have hemmed them in the same way as the original hem. If unfinished, they decided how to finish the hem. Now you know to specify the method of hemming you prefer.
Fioravanti also did a RTW line. This looks more like RTW than his custom work. It's a relatively low priced, almost entry level, probably fused jacket.
His descriptions, vocabulary and explanations aren't accurate and he doesn't use terms correctly. He doesn't distinguish between the shoulder and the sleeve. He has no historical background knowledge and refers to things that have been around forever as "trends". Nothing he said gives you any insight into understanding shoulders or proper fit in a beneficial way. The speaker's suit didn't fit well at all. A better primer is jefferyd's "Shoulder Expression" in the second...
The Kitchen is on Pearl St. It's a casual place. They also have a Denver location but i've only eaten at the Boulder location www.thekitchen.com
You can take the suits somewhere and get a second opinion. Static pictures may make the fit look worse that it might be in real life. You will have similar issues with any RTW because they are posture related issues. Try different makers, jackets are cut differently and you may find a brand that needs fewer or less severe adjustments.
It should be done on both the inseam and the out seam to keep the crease centered.If you are tapering a significant amount it is best to open the inseam and out seam and reduce equal amounts on the front panel at the bottom and the knee and taper up thru the thigh to the hip. They should cut off the extra cloth and serge the seams again.It is ok to reduce the back part more along the out seam and less along the curve of the inseam of the back part. Doing it this way...
The adjustments necessary are to correct the jacket balance for your posture and adjust the shoulder to match your squarish shoulders. Your posture is erect and it makes the jacket fronts cross over each other in the front below the buttons. This also makes the wrinkles at the waist on the back part. You need a longer front balance but there are no outlets on the front shoulder so the only option is to shorten the back and it would best to do this at the top of the back by...
Nice suit Claymore! How are the donuts in Florence? Claymore is a good guy. He visits Chicago every so often to hang out. Not many have his passion for clothes and not be overbearing about it. The thing about Claymore is he would wear this suit anywhere, anytime. He would even play baseball in it and if it got torn up, no big deal to him.
The measurements don't reveal your shape. If your hips are round, flat, oval, etc. This is what determines the styling and fitting cues. The intent of my post for you was to select the style of trouser considering all aspects of the trouser. If you have wide hips and don't like side pockets and a high rise, don't get regular pleats. If you want a high rise trouser with regular pleats, is your physique compatible with this. The flat hip is the disaster you see when the...
3/4' deep or 1 1/2" total or 1"deep, 2" total for single pleats. 1/2" deep or 1" total for a second pleat. The more prominent your hip bone or bone structure, the deeper the pleat to compensate. Prominent hip bones do more to distort the look of pleats
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