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Posts by Despos

Hold the tie at the tip of the narrow blade and let it hang. If there is any twisting along the length of the tie it means the tie is not cut on true bias and will not hang straight when worn. If it is cut properly the tie will hang perfectly straight without any twists or turning.
Best descriptor I can think of is "chunky" to describe the hopsack weave. Missed the "navy hopsack suiting"  thread on the first go around, looks interesting
Why would you say that? How did I imply that? What are you projecting?
Previewed the new Smith's Finmeresco sample book this week. Some very new cloths and creative colors. Most innovative is a fresco type hopsack for jackets. Very open weave, very dense yarns, good color range. Even a hopsack with the colors of solaro cloth with a touch of restraint.    The bulk of the range follow the colors of Minnis Fresco. There is an addition of windowpane patterns.   If you prefer coarse texture and mottled colors you will prefer Minnis. If you...
Back pocket configuration is best left to personal preference. Have only one client who gets one back right pocket with a flap but on specific trousers, not on all.     A lot of clients prefer no back pockets, most get two. Some get no pockets on suit trousers and get back pockets on casual trousers.   My take/advice is two or none. Not a fan of one back pocket.   Preference for myself is none.   The single pipe front pocket with reverse pleats is my favorite...
Use a single pipe ( jetted pocket) on almost all trousers with reverse pleats and 99% of clients order reverse pleats. 1/4 top on a few and it is determined by cloth used more than anything else. You can also make two pipes but I prefer one pipe for front and back pockets. Looks cleaner and doesn't sag open.   Agiffy, your pocket, as best I can make out form the picture, runs horizontal and resembles western pockets that have also been called frog mouth on the internet...
You do have sloping shoulders but the biggest issue is the severity of how forward your shoulders extend. These side shots show it very clearly.This is very hard to get right, both sloping and forward pitched shoulders.  The yoke is cut wrong on this shirt, doesn't sit on your shoulders properly.  
  Carpu,  these changes are everything I dislike in a DB.  Looks more like nondescript RTW. Overlap distance, button configuration define how much the overlap effects the opening and how much shirt/tie is seen. This can make all the difference to make a DB work on any size man and any proportion.
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