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Posts by Despos

It's fullness in the sleeve, pressing will get rid of it. Cause is not related to size or fit. pressed by a tailor not a dry cleaner 
Post a picture of your jacket
That would be be determined between your tailor and yourself.  Last time I remade something was 6 or 7 years ago. Client hated the "open quarters". Said who could never wear a jacket cut like that. Since there isn't a way to close the fronts, I remade two jackets.  Those were the only 2 (actually 4) jackets I made for him. I think he buys Armani suits now. Designers have cred that tailors only wish they had.
[[SPOILER]] All the problems relate to your very square shoulders and prominent shoulder blades. Jacket is not cut to properly ft your shoulder and back. It is hard to make a jacket like you need and even harder to alter this one.
Loro Piana N16313, all wool, 120's,  8/9 ounce.
Loro Piana Jacketing Book. Have made over 20 jackets from these three cloths. At least a dozen in the darker navy blue. Cutting the brown check this week.   Suggested these cloths to clients as "jacketings in good taste" from a sound mind and a clear conscious only to learn from this thread they are "too commercial"  and come off as "eye-talian" in the most vulgar sense.    Will soon issue a recall and try to get them off the street ASAP and offer some suitable...
The shoulders are more sloped than your shoulders causing the roll of cloth under the collar,  need to square the back shoulder, maybe a bit off the front shoulder.  This will get rid of the roll under the back collar and help the collar come closer to the neck.  The chest is cut too small. The back blades have a bit of extra cloth. You need more cloth across your chest and less on the back part. Trousers aren't too bad. Seat needs to be taken in. Would be careful about...
Cloth has a measured tensile strength. I forget the actual numbers but if the cloth is woven for trousers is has a higher tensile strength. If below a certain number it cannot hold up to the stress. Trousers are stressed in a different way than jackets are.   Google "tensile strength of cloth" and you can read all the science to explain and support it
WM, thank you for the excellent photos of your sartorial adventure.   Have not heard of Tofani but I like the look and the way he cuts. Probably because it is closer to what I do than the other tailors you used. By comparison Tofani is more modern and Volpe and Pirozzi cut a more vintage/old school way. I like the close to the body direction he takes. Honestly, Tofani's work is the first Neapolitan tailor that looks interesting to me. The one area I wouldn't cut as...
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