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Posts by Despos

Me too
Their body type doesn't fit any basic fitting paradigm and you have to think out of the box. The proportions are way different and the paper pattern may look very unconventional. One of the cleanest fitting suits we made last year was on a body builder type. I was happy with the finished product and usually I'm not. Don't misinterpret that point. Some men are very difficult to fit because of asymmetry. Again you have to think out of the box and do unconventional...
It isn't any easily executed adjustment and the result of all the effort may not be significant. It is a time consuming job to do on a finished jacket and the amount of improvement uncertain. 
Schofield & Smith Barathea, 12 ounce, super 120's. It's in their formal wear book, #8903 and two other suiting books.  Also comes in a 150's quality if you want more luxe. 
Not necessarily. 
The result is probably linked to "drapey old man cut" being the DNA of their silhouette so they didn't have to tweak much to get there.
Think the LL linen is 10 ounce.  
Have seen all those pictures. My thought about the thread is a bit different, sort of an index of the different LL cloths made up on several body types. It will be a few months before any of these get made up on my end. Might give the thread a try and see if has any merit.   Have the linen and the 17 ounce flannel sample books. Have used and made up the linens more than any other cloth. To me it's the right balance of body to weight.   7 ounce linen is flimsy and the...
Substitute pressure for pinch. Downward pressure from the jacket shoulder pressing against your shoulder. There is more to this than the diagram shows. Sometimes you want to square the front shoulder, baste a bit more fullness into the back part of the shoulder and work/stretch the canvas over the shoulder point. When you  set the sleeve, a bit of fullness over the shoulder point helps too. Sometimes I let out the center back seam at the neck. This is how you get the extra...
I want some of this cloth too! What is it? Clients bring in the cloth but I don't have the names associated with them   Making up a bunch of LL cloth at present. What do you guys think of  a thread highlighting clothes made from LL cloth so you can judge how the cloth looks made up? 
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