the chest can cause this but the shoulders are off and contribute to the lapels standing away. Guessing the balance is off from the pictures here. Side and back view would confirm this.
It's a combination of all these issues.
Yes, just look at the pocket. The angle is reversed from a normal angle for the pocket. The froward angle of the pocket edge facing the lapel should be towards the sleeve and the angle of the seam where the pocket is sewn should be higher on the sleeve side and lower as it moves across the chest toward the lapel/front edge of the jacket. The original thread marks are correct. The pocket is really weird, never seen this happen
since you asked it here I'll answer it here. Cloth is cut in two layers, a top and bottom, right and left side. The chalk outline of the pattern is done on the top layer and markings for pocket placement are thread marked (that's what all those white threads are) to transfer the chalk outline to the second underlying cloth. After placing the thread marks you separate the two cloths and cut the threads so you have duplicated the outline on both pieces of cloth. It is...
The suggested setting of 30-32 really doesn't mean anything as the grinders are all calibrated differently. You may find the setting that works for you to be much different than their suggestion. New burrs also improve with use as they need a breaking in period. There are plenty of tutorials online about your grinder and brewing methods It is helpful to start by measuring bean and water volume to be consistent. You just need an scale. A ratio of 15:1 works well for me....
I have only done business with them over 30 years and was at the mill last year so I am probably wrong
Saw several different, well known names woven onto the selvedge at the mill. Mills weave for several brand names
Vitale Barberis Canonico is the family name of the mill owner and the name of the mill. Drapers is another family that owns a part of VBC. They make and distribute their own cloth under the Drapers name made in the VBC mill.
When you see Vitale Barberis Canonico on the selvedge of Draper's cloth it is disclosing the mill name and not the VBC brand name.
VBC is the oldest mill in that area but also using the most updated weaving technology. Zegna and Loro Piana are...
I don't know. Received the email this morning and posted the link since it was being discussed here.
Started buying beans from Populace from a reference you made AY. Think you had their products at a shop you went to.
Have never had cold brew, will try sometime
Just ordered beans from Highwire in Emmeryville CA. Heard good things about them