We are very, very lucky to have an excellent cobbler in St. Louis. Go see Randy at Cobbler Corner in Clayton. Don't go to anyone else. He isn't cheap but the workmanship and the material that he uses are excellent. You can thank me later.
While I don't agree with everything that DWFII writes, his post (above) is very well written and I share his thoughts. The traditional ways are not always (but rather just usually) the best way of doing things. Our move away from these traditional methods are again not always (but rather just usually) rooting in making things easier not better.
Thanks for the information. So Cilento and Marinella use very similar construction technique. You prefer Kiton (they make their own I assume) as they are handmade. Who else in Napoli makes their own handmade ties? Capelli? Quarantalocatelli?