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Posts by koolhistorian

I have a similar jacket - well, without patch pockets - made from a Zegna wool/silk mixture. Very good in summer (half lined) , quite stretchy, but ultra breathable.
Quote: Originally Posted by soulcraft hey there, long time lurker, first time poster bla bla bla. I have been looking into buying a few suits that are going to fit me well, but I'm unsure about lapel size. I searched the website for ideas but so far the jargon is still a bit complicated for me. I'm a big guy (5'11, 235 pounds, broad shoulders) and want flattering lapels. What size/shape would you recommend. thank you. For larger gents,...
Take care, sales in Europe are nothing compared to US sales! Try to think in european prices instead of american prices (or just go to US from time to time). In Europe Ralf Lauren is hugely overpriced (as other american brands), for better quality thab Zara and H&M go to Peek and Cloppenburg - they cater from house labels to Boss and Armani - but you can find good things at good prices!
An overnight soak in Vanish (OXY), not in bleach + a wash at 95 degrees, long cycle. Remember that sometime ago white shirts were boiled! A white enhancer will also work - if you still have roots in Istanbul, there will be someone knowing how to do it (it is in fact a very light blue color, it will change the yellow white into blue white, as in xenon headlights).
Some tips from a "rotund" fellow: MTM is the real option - go bespoke if you have the money ! Avoid like hell baggy clothes - go as fitter as you can, a little bit of structure in tailoring will be better; A coat will elongate and slim you more than you can tell - so avoid the khaki - OCBD - tie combo; either go tieless + SC (with a nice Pocket Square) or just wear a SC+tie, if it will not be seen as overdressed; You will need a two seasons wardrobe - one for Fall/Winter,...
Very interesting leap from Carmina shoes to Vova and Mitea - "nash rukavaditel' i nash president"!
Try any dishwashing detergent liquid - if stain too stubborn any decent cleaner should deal with. The french have a miracle product called "Terre de Sommiers" - a very fine clay powder that really takes out grease from stains, combined with "Detachant Hussard" (bought from valmour) I could take out stains out of ties thought long gone.
An industrial made suit will not have the same fabric reserve that a tailor made one will have (the amount of fabric that is left around the stitches. For economy sake, they will cut as closely as they can, so your tailor has not the necessary amount of extra fabric (in the insides of your jacket) to let it out. For the future - buy a jacket that fits around the shoulders (that is the tricky part for a coat to remake), the rest can be taken off quite easily - did not get...
For the vent issue - no it cannot be fixed with a RTW jacket! Go for a side vent or ventless on a different pattern - you probably have a drop issue (the difference between chest and tights is lesser than in the pattern of the jacket. As a "diplomatic" solution, a navy blazer is a good one!
For a first commission, go with a classical cut - 3 roll 2 for example - mid grey suit - if you are set on Dugdale's have the New Fine Worsteds (on the lighter side, but better for a 9 months suit in subtropical Australia, something like 8961, a good mid grey.
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