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Posts by koolhistorian

Gentlemen, quick question - does anybody have any experience with Dormeuil Tecnik? It is really thermo adaptable? Or just a marketing gimmick? Thank you very much!
Sorry to disappoint, but proper manners demands that the man should lead the way when entering a restaurant (considered a "dangerous" place), so to shield the lady for whatever embarrassing situation. It goes with walking on the road side, lighting his cigarette with a match first (to take the bad vapors), ordering the drinks, etc.
Here are some of my €2 cents - disclaimer I am from Europe, and in a very niche academia (think government school) so it tends to be super formal, compared to other kinds of academic institutions. First step - identify your needs (aside the fact that you need a wardrobe vamp up) - teaching, conferences, travel, other activities (committees, fund raisers, alumni relations). Second step - see in activities what kind of outfit can overlap - teaching with conferences and...
Did you ever tried the "old style" solution? -I.e. Soak them in hot water for a night, wash them at 90 C with some white fabric detergent?
I have two suits made of, quite breathable and they keep well when traveling, good two seasons (extended) garments. Too airy for winter, but, depending on construction, will be pleasant enough for mild summers.
There are many solutions if you are on a tight budget - one is eBay (there are some good vendors that have slight seconds I.e. small aesthetic problems, so the quality of the shoe is there and the price is right; second is during sales, I highly recommend Herring shoes, notably their A. Sargent for Herring, another option is Pediwear. It takes some patience and planning to build your shoe wardrobe, depends mostly on what job you have, if it needs to be ultra formal or you...
I think the ladies section is more "usable" in practical terms - aside the obsession with black tights. If you see the info graph as aimed to educate people that think sandals with socks are acceptable for a meeting... It is a first step, not a condensed manual of sprezzatura!
And buy a good iron and an ironing board, too much steam is no good for your suits. Watch the YouTube videos of Tom Mahon (the English Cut) on how to touch up your garments, practice on a old pair of pants, and keep in mind that mostly anything in pressing can be corrected with water and heat!
Just have your pants re- pressed! And change the cleaner.
Tailors, in my experience, are "craftsmen" not stylists - they will be more interested in solving technical problems, rather than style problems, I.e. when you say "I want this suit on the lighter, softer side", how to build the canvass and padding, rather than the aesthetic of the suit. Traditionally, at least in my side of Europe, the client was the stylist (I am speaking for men's tailoring, ladies being another cup of tea), the master tailor and his team being in...
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