I guess that you are one who is more secure with "rules"
I am, in your teminology, " more exotic and non traditional"
I have two identical pairs of 3 eyelet v front derbies from
Ludwig Reiter. One pair is black leather, and one is dark
brown suede. Together, they cover virtually all situations,
although I own other shoes. No captoes, or brogues, however.
Not to my taste.