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Posts by comrade

You caught me! I had intended to wear a wing collar, but my Valet, who was later deported, inexplicably sent out all of my wing collars for laundering. Suffice to say, my collar choice caused a minor sensation.
Two Very prominent bespoke houses: http://www.the-journal-of-style.com/2011/01/20/a-visit-to-a-caraceni-in-milan/ http://www.marianorubinacci.net/eng/milano.php
This is what I wore the first time I met my future wife's parents. It was also a brunch. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_tDZhmux-ePI/SPI87C2nwmI/AAAAAAAAAY8/9fLfshny28c/s400/XL801747.JPG
From the photos of the glen plaid suit I do not detect any hint of "spalla"Here are some examples:http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=spalla+shoulder&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
Clarification: FOR ME an extended shoulder in unacceptable. So is more than minimal padding.As for dignified, I refer to what I see as a Pitti freak show. Not to gentlemen who dress well andconservatively, but have padded and/or extended shoulders. Even if I could afford it, I wouldnever buy Huntsman. It's my taste.
Naturally my perspective is different. External appearance is the primary standard on which to judgeclothes and taste. My guess is that there is a consensus in SF and the style-aware in general as to what constitutes dignified dressing.This has nothing to do with an individual's moral compass or internal dignity.It's how they appear.Jeez. I am spending Saturday afternoon intellectualizing my particular clothes snobbery.
To my taste an extended shoulder is never acceptable unless one's shoulders are so narrow as to require it for some balance.As for narrow waists, I do not like close-fitting jackets. I do confess to wearing "nipped" waists when I was younger and trimmer, but with jackets that were not close-fitting. I think that might have been called "drape"- a term I was unaware of at the time.
AC: ...I think what makes a beautiful dinner jacket or a beautiful tuxedo is very different than what makes a beautiful suit. I think dinner wear should look like dinner wear. It should have an extended shoulder, it should have a narrow waist, the lapels should be full, it should be a little bit more elevated. So there are fabrics in my mind that I think of when I think about that. But we want to innovate too. I think of this electric midnight blue as a formal fabric. I...
I love the shirt. Where did you get it?
I wear nothing less than 3.75, except in knit ties. But then I am a style reactionary.
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