I made several purchases last year. CS is top notch; Michèle and Ken are great. They will not mark down. I got killed on DHL brokerage fees with the Layer-0 blazer. Almost 300usd iirc. 2 day shipping worldwide.
Vachetta is cow. It's m.a+'s standard leather. Sometimes people will call thier M.A+ Vachetta stuff Calf but it's tagged Cow on the magnetic tag.
It will age really nice. @chomeo has a beat up pair of derbies that look really great.