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Posts by DWFII

FTFYGiven the tone and tenor of some of the previous replies shouldn't that be ^ ?
Yr. Hmb. Svt.
Not really. If hand stitching the outsole, the welt is left wide until the stitching is done and then the welt and outsole trimmed to where ever you want it relative to the line of stitching.I like to see the stitching be half way between the vamp and the edge of the outsole/welt.If machine stitching, there's a guide on the machine that rides on the edge of the outsole, so the welt and outsole must be pre-trimmed such that the machine will stitch halfway (again, my...
Many years ago, I talked extensively with a highly regarded model maker. He told me that the main reason lasts had a bottom radius was to make the shoe look narrower. I was also told that when shoes are entered into competitions, the longer and narrower sizes are always the ones that are entered because they "show" better. So the notion that a narrower shoe looks more elegant has some currency if only in people's imaginations. I think your idea that a bottom radius helps...
Probably as good an explanation as any.It hasn't really been said explicitly, although shoefan alluded to it--these lasts are not "corrective" lasts. They are indeed an attempt to more closely model the foot and foot action.Such attempts are many and varied across the years. I've seen lasts that had no bottom radius--that were actually concave rather than convex in the forepart. And why not? Feet aren't convex on the plantar surface...not healthy feet at least. When you...
Nonsense...you're a good shoemaker and far and away better suited to answer this than those who don't have any experience making shoes, but, for some reason, feel compelled to answer anyway.That's right. You can almost see that point of contact on the last and on the pedograph if you understand the "line of muscular action" (LOMA). It is, as I said in another (?) thread, where the tread line and the LOMA intersect--more to the medial side of the forepart than the...
The medial ankle bone--the malleolus-- is higher than the lateral ankle bone. Too high a topline, esp. on the lateral side of the shoe, can cause pain severe enough to make the shoes unwearable.Apologies...I re-read your post and understand you may have been talking about the heels themselves.Usually, if the heel is higher on the medial side it is because of the way the last is made. Generally speaking, a wedge is added to the plantar surface of the lateral heel of the...
I understand and I agree. It is perhaps the difference between a customer 's POV and that of a maker.Depending on how we define perfection--regularity, symmetry, consistency, predictability--no hand made product can be as perfect as a machine made product.And machine made shoes are virtual clones of each other even when the styling changes. An aspect that will never be the case for hand work. So almost by definition, perfection is impossible.But at the same time it is a...
French and German too, AFAIK.It's been like this for centuries, however, especially in the English Tradition. The Guilds contributed to and fostered the distinction and it never really faded.Today, cobblers often...pretentiously...call themselves shoemakers. But, just by definition, it's not true.
Don't spread the quarters apart anymore than you have to. Pull on the tongue gently and always upward rather than away from the foot. IOW, don't put anymore strain on the ripped areas than you have to. It is the opening and the spreading of the leather and the edges of the rip that will make it worse, not simply wearing them.
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