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Posts by DWFII

That could possibly be worse than just leaving it the way it is. Without the original last there's no telling how the shoe originally sat and it's every bit a guess as to how much would need to be taken off or put on to make them even ord anywhere close to what was intended.--
Kind of like "hand sewn Goodyear."
Really?! That's news to me. Seems inconsistent with the idea of it being a mistake from "rushed a bit through production."Honestly, what of substance is being said here? I agree with Ryder's observation but I don't think the response from the manufacturer contradicts it. Bottom line, it's a mistake...all the rest is just verbal window dressing.
Just a note of clarification...my intent with that comment was to speak to waxing and waxes more than anything else. FWIW, however, any thread that is exposed to the environment can, and often does, wick moisture...esp. from wet to dry.Beyond that, even though it's not the same kind of wax as handwax or intended for the same purpose, putting shoe polish/wax on the threads occasionally, won't hurt them, you know. Other than that I wouldn't worry too much.
Sometimes...maybe more often than not...the bundles of horsehair are held in the wood with paste, or at least a water based glue. If the water gets down in the "follicle," so to speak, the hair can start slipping. Days later. --
I don't believe this is true. Most makers of handmade goods would not praise such problems. Most makers take great and deliberate care to avoid them.The real difference is that we've come to expect a "mechanical" definition of perfection, no matter how sterile or banal. We tend to equate symmetry and regularity with perfection...because the machines have taught us to.All other things being equal, a sewing machine will always make stitches a set distance apart...every...
Various student have called me "magic hands" but never gorilla hands. My hands are relatively small and while pretty strong, I don't think I could bend a mild steel 60d nail with my hands alone.
I know that they're used. I've seen and handled them..I'm not particularly impressed.Theoretically, any shoe with a heel height plus or minus half an inch doesn't need a shank, or at least a metal shank...for the health of the foot. But I suspect that theory is an old one that depends on quality materials--the kind that often go missing in manufactured shoes. And health issues aside, the shoe is still more apt to break down in the waist if there is no shank or if it is too...
The stitches are not there to prevent the shank from moving during resoling, they are there to prevent the shank from moving during wear or walking. The shank is well conformed to the bottom of the insole/last but it could move side ways.In truth there is probably little chance (but not zero chance) that the shank will move if the outsole is in place correctly, and/or if the shank is surrounded by cork and cement. But I don't use cork and I simply believe that if it is...
Re: oil in leather...I have never tried Patrick's method but he's done quite a bit of research on the subject, so... In any case, what we always did with any oil stain was slap on several successive coats of Elmers or BestTest rubber cement. Let dry thoroughly and then roll off. The solvents in the rubber cement will absorb the oil and lock it into the rubber and it will come off with the rubber. No scrubbing necessary. Repeat until the oil is fully removed. Fuller's...
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