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Posts by DWFII

I suspect a goodly part of it goes back to just the fact that rubber heels only came along late in the long history of shoes. They are not part of the Tradition of fine shoes. The fact of the matter is that rubber heels and rubber outsoles are very common--the default, really--on lower quality shoes, and have been for years (most of our lifetimes, in any event) ... so it's not like they are unknown or just recently discovered. But given the history, rubber heels and...
The shell I've used (Horween) and seen is usually about 4 ounce maybe 5.
Any shine...whether it be on leather or on a a telescopic mirror...is only achieved when the porosity and roughness is eliminated. The fact that your shine "wore off" only further serves to underscore my point about plating and glazing not being permanent. It only wore off because the leather returned to its more natural state when the follicles and pores and other irregularities in and on the grain surface relaxed from the compressed state imparted by plating.I agree it...
^ All pretty much the way I understand it...but again, I doubt the tightening of the grain is permanent. Leather is a fiber mat. It has voids in and amongst those fibers...including the pits where hair follicles existed as well as where fat cells were. Glazing / plating...high pressure...compresses those voids, closes the follicles. But where there is no structure there is nothing to prevent those voids from re-opening, esp. when exposed to moisture or flexing. Every...
AFAIK, plating of one sort or another is relatively common. Platingcan be for the purpose of embossing a leather, or just to press and smooth the grain surface and close up the follicles...which is what you are interested in, I suspect.Many leathers are rolled and burnished during the final stages of tannage and currying. From what I've been told...talking to the tanneries and suppliers...high gloss crocodile, for instance, is burnished with pressure and heat using glass...
I use Masure outsoling. I like it better than any other tannage I have ever used...even better than Baker. It's firm without being flint-y, dense and it finishes better than any alternative.I can not speculate about Masure upper leathers...as they are not available to me...except to say that AFAIK they are pure veg tans. Unlike Horween which mostly does retans.
I can't answer for RTW, but leather for bespoke is typically cut according to the location on the hide--some areas being firmer and denser than others, regardless of thickness. But generally speaking good quality leather from a good tannery will be a pretty even thickness in all areas that are considered prime. So if the quarters are cut from prime they should be consistent with the vamps. If they are not cut from prime, then they might not only be thinner but of uneven...
They are not made from a leather that was / is meant to be shined. It is a distressed cowhide.
Thanks.
Did Maftei start with a standard size last and make adjustments to model your foot? Or did he carve the lasts from a block of wood? If I understood your post, you mentioned he took your measurements and came up with the lasts and the fitter's model (trial shoe) overnight. Quick work if he carved the last from scratch.
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